Independence Day is almost here! If you live near a school, a soccer field, a parking lot, or a barrio with a lot of school-age kids, you’ve probably heard the familiar signs that September 15 is just around the corner: the pounding of drums, a repetitive, seemingly non-stop martial beat echoing through the neighborhood, before the delicate plinking of the xylophones weaves in and out, barely heard over the thunder of percussion. This is our sound of celebration — the first-half-of-September soundtrack.
I’ve experienced more than 30 Independence Days here. I remember my children marching in parades that began in the heat of the day, the drum and xylophone bands in full swing, sidewalks crowded with smiling families, faces painted in national colors, and la bandera — the Costa Rican flag — waving everywhere.
I’m lucky — I have two Independence Days to celebrate. Most of my U.S. Independence Day memories come from the July 4ths of my youth: the ear-splitting M-80s exploding inches from my ears, the burnt fingertips from sparklers, the fireworks show that sounded like a bombing raid, and the inevitable upset stomach from hot dogs, hamburgers, and later, too much beer. Those were the days.
Costa Rica actually shares its Independence Day with Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and El Salvador. All were granted independence from Spain on September 15, 1821. Because the act was signed in Guatemala City and news traveled slowly, Costa Rica didn’t hear about its independence until early October. Only Guatemala celebrated on the actual day — giving them bragging rights, like the first of a set of twins (or quintuplets) to emerge from the birth canal of freedom.
The tradition of the Independence Day eve faroles (lanterns) also began in Guatemala. On the night of the 14th, students walk the streets carrying lit lanterns, some homemade, some store-bought, honoring Dolores Bedoya, the woman who walked around Guatemala City that night with a farol, spreading the news that the Spaniards had finally surrendered.
We are all brothers and sisters here in Central America — even us Gringos who’ve been here long enough to know the words to the Himno Nacional. The anthem ends with my favorite line of any national anthem:
Vivan siempre el trabajo y la paz
Long live work and peace.
Now that’s a thought we can all get behind. Feliz Día de la Independencia!
