Call Me Crazy, But I Like Puntarenas, My first impression of Puntarenas, the much-maligned port city on the central Pacific coast, was the typical one: hectic, hot, and humid. The grotty industrial approach into town doesn’t help. The whole place seems like an unpleasant waiting room for ferries to the Nicoya Peninsula, the tourist mecca across the Gulf of Nicoya. But with every subsequent visit, the city’s quirky character and offbeat attractions have grown on me.
Before you dismiss Puntarenas out of hand, consider this: What other port city boasts a Blue Flag-certified beach, guarantees spectacular sunsets, has some of the best seafood restaurants in the country, is home to a beautiful old cathedral and a new marine museum with a tank full of sharks, and has inspired three musical odes to its charms? Throw in the Churchill, a uniquely Puntarenas ice-cream concoction, and you have a town worth visiting.
Ode to Puntarenas
Puntarenas has been a popular spot for Ticos to spend a day by the seaside since 1910, when Pacific railway trains began delivering city-weary josefinos (San José residents) directly to the beach. Thanks to a 2000 millennial beautification project that spruced up the beach, cruise dock, and the Paseo de los Turistas, the seafront today exudes the peculiar charm of many seaside towns: a mix of honky-tonk, sleaze, and natural beauty, with traces of faded elegance.
What sets the Puntarenas seafront apart is that it’s not only a tourist destination but also an open-air living room for the entire town. In the early morning, the beach is alive with porteños, as the residents call themselves, jogging, walking, swimming, and cycling. Sunset is a major community event. In the cool of the evening, locals gather in small groups to picnic, dance to car-radio music, or just sit back on lawn chairs to enjoy the fresh breezes off the gulf.
Puntarenas has history, architectural charm, savory seafood, and – something increasingly rare – a distinctive sense of place. You won’t mistake it for anywhere else. It also has a palpable sense of community and a friendly atmosphere. An evening stroll in the residential area north of the Paseo reveals families chilling in their fan-cooled portones, which they use as outdoor parlors. They won’t let you pass without a nod and an “adiós.”
If you enjoy people-watching and local color, visit Puntarenas on a weekend during cruise-ship season when the action peaks. For a quieter experience tinged with off-season wistfulness, come during the rainy season.
Architecture
At its widest, Puntarenas is only 600 meters – five avenidas – wide. The historic center features the impressive gothic-revival Nuestra Señora del Carmen Cathedral. Though it looks ancient, the cathedral was built in 1902 and recently renovated. The large park in front of the cathedral offers shaded benches for observing slices of small-town life, such as children practicing calisthenics or teenagers trying out their English on tourists.
Anchoring the other end of the plaza is the fortress-like Casa de la Cultura, the city’s former port headquarters and jail. This cultural center hosts art and photography exhibits.
