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COSTA RICA'S LEADING ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER

Building on a Good Thing: Access to Building Materials Eases

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THE rapidly developing area of Guanacaste appears to have a thriving market surrounding home and commercial construction.

The area is home to dozens of companies specializing in building supplies, contracting and other construction-related activities.

One of those companies is the one-stop-shopping construction company Flordel Pacífico (653-0098, www.flordelpacifico.com), managed for the past 12 years by Jeff Hutton.

Hutton’s company is almost entirely self-contained, he said, with its own architect and a carpentry team capable of constructing high-quality doors, windows, cabinets and countertops.

“We’re able to take a client and work with them and customize for their individual needs,” he said.

Hutton said he has a strong background in advanced landscape design, and never works on a project without taking that knowledge into careful consideration.

CUSTOMIZING for the client is also a specialty of José Mora (844-5913), a Guanacaste architect who has designed 22 luxury homes in the area, as well as several five- to seven-story buildings.

He uses a program called 3-D Studio Max to give clients an idea of what their homes will actually look like when constructed, since plans and other renderings can  sometimes be a bit difficult for clients to understand, he said. Mora said he can use the program to give clients a 3-D animated tour of their home or building before the design process is complete.

He has teamed up with a local engineer – Daniel Coen – on virtually every one of his projects in the area. Mora said working consistently with Coen, who oversees the construction process, has allowed for increased project security.

Mora charges 8-10% of the total cost of the project, which he said is a fairly standard price for most architects in Costa Rica.

TOTAL construction prices vary widely, said local contractors, depending mostly on the details.

“You’re money isn’t in doing the gray structure – your money is in how you finish it,” said Norman Dubé of Durocret (845-7873), a concrete-mixing company that also builds small homes for resale.

Hutton agreed with that assertion. He said finishing materials that have to be imported, such as tumbled stone tile, can have a dramatic impact on the price.

Hutton also said things such as the electronic equipment in structures can drastically affect the total cost of the project. In the case of a home, he said, stoves can cost anywhere from $2,000 to $15,000.

He added that he has most of the supplies he uses trucked in from San José.

However, the Guanacaste area is also home to the recently built and still-expanding Papagayo Do It Center (667-0667).

The store consists of a 6,000-square-meter lumber yard and a 6,000-squaremeter warehouse stocked with paint, hardware, electrical materials, plumbing, lighting, housewares, lawn and garden materials, kitchen materials, bathroom supplies, ceramics and furniture.

The only products the store lacks right now, according to store managers, are windows and major electrical appliances such as refrigerators, ovens and washers and dryers. But, they say, the company is currently negotiating contracts that will enable them to offer these supplies.

OPTIONS are also available for clients interested in smaller projects.

For a specialized touch, the area company Stuccoman (653-0647), owned by Phil Baker, specializes in covering houses with colonial-style stucco (for about $7 per square meter), but also builds small pools, bungalows, and does concrete work. He says he’s been working in the area for about three years now, and builds his company “by standing by our work and the product.”

 

Browsing Under Cover: Liberia Mall Takes Shoppers Seriously

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UNTIL recently, the Guanacaste shopping experience has included various souvenir and artisan stands, supermarkets, clothing and surf shops, with the odd pharmacy and entrepreneur filling a community need (computers, cell phones, hair and personal care, spas, etc.). If one wanted a full selection of quality household goods, electronics, CDs, brand-name clothing or even simply a change of pace, many would make the trip to San José.

With the opening of Plaza Liberia over a year ago, the intent was to render that journey unnecessary.

When the doors opened at the threestory shopping mall, its main feature was the quad movie theaters and a store or two.

This March, however, things at the Plaza were really busy, especially for manager Luis Alejander, who oversaw the grand opening festivities for the center’s newest occupant, Mundo La Gloria.

On the first floor, Mundo La Gloria is an offshoot of a popular San José department store; however, the Liberia branch sells only clothing, albeit a fine selection. And shoppers need not worry about cash for their desired goods, because soon Banco Costa Rica will open a facility just across from La Gloria.

ANOTHER flagship of Plaza Liberia is Fischel Drug Store, which opened last August on the second floor. According to Administrator Marleny Rodríguez, the pharmacy is popular because people recognize the name – Fischel is a popular San Jose chain – and know it has all the medicines and supplies in one place. This pharmacy is open on Sundays.

Just across the way from Fischel is a franchise of Quique Surf Shop.

“We’ve done much better than expected,” reports the store’s Yessenia López, explaining that the new location has afforded the opportunity to throw events, such as a recent Billabong party, which drew customers from Liberia and well beyond.

Other familiar names at Plaza Liberia include a Fuji Film booth, Penny Lane shoes, Qué Nota CDs and DVDs, Hallmark cards and gift shop, Pronto women’s clothing in the same store as Armi for men, Altamar Skate & Surf and Bijoux Bellox en Bisuteria accessories.

Although a new name to Costa Rica, Naturana has been quite popular since opening last month. This lingerie store is unique to the area because it sells imports from France and Germany and has a wide availability of sizes. The owners are father and son Bernal and Sebastian Mesen, who saw an opportunity and took it. The Mesens also own the mall’s branch of the popular Exitos music shop, which opened in November 2003. Again, the business has been “much better than expected.”

“We were prepared to have 1 to 1 ½ years of hard times, but since we opened, sales keep going up and up,” says Sebastian. “We get lots of tourists, but really more locals come in than tourists. It’s all relative, because 10 locals may come in and one or two buy, but out of four foreigners, probably one or two will buy.”

ON the other end of the second floor is the

Food Court

, laden with tables and chairs, but only two services are open. Cocina Mediterrania is owned by Marco Nikola Ferrari, Silvia Castillo and Rosa Esmerald González, and draws on the proprietors’ mix of Italian and Costa Rican heritages to serve pizza, pasta and typical food. They are already “happy with things, so we look for lots of money in the future and many tourists.”

THE

Food Court

also includes an ice cream shop called Sorbe Heladeria, and there are talks to fill the other slots with chains and private restaurateurs.

On the third floor, where the movie theaters reside and lots more shopping slots wait to be filled, is a Made in India booth selling clothing, jewelry and natural medicines from that country; a Spring Shop clothing store; and Interiors, the exclusive representative in Central America of Mill’s Pride “Quality Cabinets Made Easy.” At the far end is a game room called Centro De Tukis, where kids can partake in such pleasures as Home Run Hitter, Ridge Racer, Pop A Ball and the extremely popular Bozo the Clown Basketball.

Games, food, and shopping aside, the movie theaters are still the crown jewels of Plaza Liberia, having steadily drawn nationals and tourists who previously relied on videos or movie channels for theatrical entertainment. Some, like 24-year-old Liberia resident Fabiola Nuñez, see an average of two current-release movies per week. Nuñez doesn’t plan on slowing down anytime soon.

 

Despite Red Tape, Pacific Marinas Look to the Future

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LOS Sueños marina at Herradura on the central PacificCoast, the larges marina in Costa Rica, has not had space available for the last year.

So you could say that while one marina is still on paper and another is floundering in a legal limbo, the marina situation in Guanacaste has potential. In the next few years its coasts could have bragging rights to two, if not more, new or revamped facilities for pleasure craft.

SIXTEEN visionaries, almost all Costa Rican, who are the Association for the Development of the Marina of Playas del Coco, have set the substantial paper foundation for a new marina there – the zoning plan has been approved, according to the president of the leadership council, Rafael Villegas, but the concession has not been awarded yet.

The group began the paperwork five years ago, with the help of the Triangle of Solidarity, a now-defunct project initiated by the presidency, aimed at helping communities develop. The first backhoes and cement mixers should roll onto the site within a year. The marina will be finished, if all goes as planned, five years later.

They plan to work with the Inter-Institutional Commission for Marinas and Tourism Docks (CIMAT), coordinated by the Costa Rican Tourism Institute, with representatives from the Ministries of Health, Environment, Transportation and the National Housing Institute. CIMAT is charged with providing a technical decision on all marina concessions, which also must be approved by the corresponding municipality (TT, Oct. 3, 2003).

This is an ambitious project that shoots for record proportions in the isthmus – Villegas claims it will be the largest marina in Central America. In the first stage, the marina will have 300 slips and all the services. Those will include the equipment for full, dry repairs, mechanics’ workshops and gas and diesel fill-ups.

VISITORS from abroad will be able to check in with an immigration agent there, and a firefighters’ boat will be on call, as will police. Playas del Coco is a port, it already has a Port Captain, immigration office, and police. The marina will pay for the firefighters’ boat, which they need for their insurance policy. Amenities will include the usual fare for visitors to Costa Rica’s beaches: hotels, condominiums, restaurants and casinos.

The second stage will add 500 slips, taking its capacity to 800. “The marina will comply with all the standards and rules of those in the United States,” Villegas said. “The advantage is that there are no hurricanes.”

He said the prices will be the going rates for similar services anywhere. He claims it will also provide hundreds of jobs, figuring in all the personnel who will work directly for the marina and in the periphery businesses, such as slip attendants, mechanics, and hotel and restaurant employees.

THE situation at the Flamingo Marina on the Bahía Potrero, farther south, is much murkier.

Last week, the Environmental Tribunal ordered the Municipality of Santa Cruz to shut down the Marina for the second time in six months.

Criticizing Mayor Pastor Gómez for allowing the marina to remain open, the Tribunal issued a resolution stating that under no circumstances will boats be permitted at the site and requested the cessation of all activities in the marina.

The Tribunal began investigating last year after reports of alleged water pollution at the marina. When the Municipality failed to present an environmental plan to deal with the problem, the Tribunal first called for the marina’s closure in Oct., 2003.

DESPITE the Tribunal’s ruling, the marina had continued to operate (TT, Dec. 12, 2003).

Alexandra Gutiérrez, administrative director for the Municipality of Santa Cruz, told La Nación that activities at the marina have been suspended. However, she added that the Secretariat Technical of the Environment and Energy Ministry has been evaluating the situation for the past four months and there is a possibility approval will be given to reopen the marina in the future.

Filling in for Mayor Gómez while he was out of the office last week, acting Mayor Mary Paniagua said the future concession was still going through legal procedures, including the approval of a new zoning plan, and could take as long as six months.

ULRIK Oldenburg, hotel owner and president of the Flamingo Beach Association Board, is biding his time while the political forces duke it out over the marina’s new ownership.

His association and the Marina Boat Captain Association had been collecting voluntary payment from boat captains in the slips to pay guards and marina employees in the meantime.

If the dock is closed, Oldenburg estimates that 450 people would be out of work, including all the supporting businesses – hotels, restaurants, etc. that would lose clientele.

WE [in the associations] all have different interests, but one common goal: that the marina must not close,” Oldenburg said. “The marina is a viable source of income, not just for my hotel, but for the other businesses, down to the lady who sells empanadas on the docks.”

A future marina in Ocotal is more nebulous than the two previously mentioned.

Rick Wallace, owner of the Hotel Ocotal, said he began the paper work a few years ago, but has put the project on hold for now.

 

Golf in Guanacaste: An Invitation to Tee

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CHANCES are you can’t get a tee time at Augusta National. Let’s be honest – you won’t even be allowed through the door.

However, in Costa Rica you’re almost guaranteed to be able to schedule your tee time of choice at the nation’s best courses, with their breathtaking views, amazing fairways and tropical wildlife.

Taking into account that the cost to play two rounds at Pebble Beach, with all its stipulations and restrictions, will cost you roughly three times what it would cost to fly down to Costa Rica, play the same number of rounds and fly home, golfers may find that Guanacaste is the destination they’ve been looking for.

About a 45-minute drive from Liberia’s Daniel Oduber International airport, Hacienda Pinilla (680-7000, www.haciendapinilla.com) in Santa Cruz strives to offer great service as well as ideal playing conditions. Because it is inland, unlike several other Guanacaste courses, the par-72 links course tends to have better wind conditions and it is referred by many to have “the best greens in Central America,” according to David R. Vallejos, the course’s PGA head golf professional.

The course offers four sets of tees, ranging from 5,754 to 7,274 yards for players of varying skill.

In planning the course, designers tried to infringe on as little of the surrounding wildlife, moving very little dirt and working around trees. The course is certified by Audubon International for its protection to its surrounding environment, and has a water filtration system for recycling water from the Hacienda Pinilla resort to water the course. The resort is also involved in a local reforestation project.

PROVIDING guests with an enjoyable experience is important to the staff. “Anything a golfer wants we can provide,” says Vallejos. “And we provide it with a smile.”

The course offers lessons and instruction and has an on-site clubhouse with bar and grill.

Playing 18 holes costs $70 for hotel guests and members of Anagolf. The cost for outside players is $125. Cart is included in the cost. Clubs and shoes are also available for rental.

ABOUT an hour’s drive north at the Paradisus Playa Conchal Beach and Golf Resort (654-4123, www.solmelia.com), the Garra de León course, with its spacious fairways, stunning Pacific Ocean views and howler monkeys in the surrounding trees, offers golfers what the resort calls an “eco-golf experience.” With four sets of tees ranging from 7,080 to 5,446 yards, this Audubon-certified par-72 course offers golfers several playing options.

An 18-hole round at Garra de León during the high season costs $140 for guests of the resort, $175 for outside players. Nine holes is $75 for guests, $85 for outside players. Guests 17 and under play free, while outside players under 17 play for $15. Green fees include cart usage, use of the practice facility, range balls, beverages and club storage. Clubs and shoes are available to rent.

THE course also has a PGA-certified instructor, Garra de León director of golf Philip Krick, Jr. and offers private as well as group instruction and video analysis for players looking to improve their game.

About an hour and a half farther north, the Four Seasons Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo (696-0000, www.fourseasons.com/costarica) opened its golf course in February. Only open to guests of the resort, the Arnold Palmer par-72 course features ocean views from 14 of its 18 holes, with elevation changes throughout.

In contrast to the other courses in the region, the Four Seasons course, has paspalum grass. Paspalum, unlike the traditionally used Bermuda, can stand up better to varying weather and can be watered with saltwater. Some golfers also feel that green speeds are improved with this turf. Also, because it is a closed course it tends to be less crowded than others in the area.

While the course is not Audubon-certified, Director of Golf Rob Oosterhuis says that is one of the resort’s goals in coming months. Also, as the course is new, the construction of the clubhouse is not yet complete, but is expected to be finished by the end of the year.

A round of 18 holes on the 6,788-yard course is $180, with a twilight rate of $110 for play after 2 p.m. Carts are included in the rental. Club and shoe rental are also available.

DEPENDING on your time or budget, a round of nine holes is another option. Farther south, near Playa Tambor on the NicoyaPeninsula are two nine-hole courses.

The longer established of the two is located at Tango Mar Resort (683-0001, www.tangomar.com). For $25, golfers can play all day. Cart is not included in the green fee, however, cart and club rental is available. Barceló Los Delfines (683-0303, www.barcelo.com) resort charges $25 for nine holes, giving players the option to play the course twice for a total 18 holes for $30. Cart is not included in green fee, but cart and club rental is available.

There has been talk about extending the par-35 course to 18 holes, but according to the pro shop such expansion would be in the very distant future.

With the ability to play a selection or all of these courses in one trip and reasonable green fees, golfing after Costa Rica may never be the same.

 

What to do in Guanacaste Costa Rica

TO most visitors, Guanacaste means its fabled beaches, but plenty of day excursions can lure you into the water, under the water or a long way from the water.

This section of the Pacific coast offers some of Costa Rica’s best underwater exploration. If you are a certified diver, Resort Divers de Costa Rica (Playa Panamá, 672-0103, www.resortdiverscr. com) will take you out for half-day, twodive excursions ($65). If you’re not, snorkeling ($50) is an option. The company also offers a daylong Discover Scuba Diving course, not resulting in any certification, but geared toward novices who want to get a taste of the activity.

Tamarindo Sport Fishing (Tamarindo, 653-0090, www.tamarindosportfishing.com) operates two boats: the 38-foot Talking Fish and the 27-ft. Salsa, each captained by long-time veterans. Half-day inshore outings run $375-$575 for the boat, with roosterfish, mackerel and tuna yours for the catching. Full-day offshore trips open you to the world of marlin and sailfish and run $600-$975.

IF less effort on a boat is more your style, sailing excursions on the 52 ft. Samonique III (Flamingo, 388-7870) run most afternoons from 2-6:30 p.m. The $60- per-person price tag buys you a relaxing few hours on the waves, with sandwiches, appetizers, an open bar, and those legendary Guanacaste sunsets to top off the day.

Guanacaste doesn’t get the attention in eco-circles that other regions of Costa Rica do, but this is prime nature-exploration territory. The folks at the Organization for Tropical Studies conduct full-day ($30) or half-day ($15) guided excursions at their Palo Verde Biological Station (PaloVerdeNational Park, 240-6696, www.ots.ac.cr).

The 20,000-hectare park hugs the TempisqueRiver and encompasses 13 habitats of dry tropical forest with wetland vegetation. Turtle watching at Las Baulas National Marine Park (Playa Grande, 653-0470) isn’t so much a day tour as a night outing, a very late-night outing.

Advance reservations through the park information center or with the Mundo de las Tortugas museum (653-0471) next door and accompaniment by licensed guides are musts to be out on the beach at night during the leatherback turtles’ October to March nesting season. (See separate story.)

River tourism usually means screaming down whitewater rapids, but Safaris Corobicí (Cañas, 669-6091, www.safariscorobici.com) lets you float gently in a raft down the CorobicíRiver. Someone else does the driving, letting you soak up the monkey-, bird- and crocodile-laden scenery. Two- to four-hour trips run $37-$60.

CANYONING and canopy tours combine into one at Hotel Hacienda Guachipelín (Rincón de la Vieja National Park, 442-2818, www.guachipelin.com). A zip-line tour begins a short distance from the lodge, and encompasses 10 platforms, cables 25-85 meters long, a Tarzan swing, and rappelling into the Río Blanco canyon in sight of its three waterfalls. A $70 AdventurePass lets you spend the day and includes lunch and any of the other activities you can fit in.

This is cowboy country, so horses are king in Guanacaste. Paradise Riding (Junquillal, 658-8162, www.paradiseriding.com) is one of many outfitters up here conducting tours. The horses are calm, and most excursions require no advance experience.

Two hours on horseback through the ranch or on the beach are yours for $25; four hours for $49. English, German and Spanish are spoken.

Surfers in Costa Rica Catch a Break on the Northern Pacific Coast

The waves of Guanacaste are world famous. The breaks from top to bottom of this northwestern province have been chronicled in surf magazines since the 1960s, and classic films such as “Endless Summer II” have drawn thousands of adventurers to the year round warm seas.

The surf still warrants Class-A exposure, as the inclusion of Tamarindo’s Robert August, his friends and their favorite local spots in the exquisitely filmed 2003 theatrical release “Step Into Liquid” can attest.

But what of the guy or gal that hears the buzz about surfing the GoldenCoast and wants to learn the sport? Or the seasoned surfer looking to put together a trip?

In the surf community, writing this kind of article is controversial, usually inviting debate between providing a service for travelers versus the potential for an area’s overexposure.

Whatever the case may be, surf tourism is flourishing in Guanacaste, and it’s because you’ll find everything here to enjoy the sport. Generally each break will have a surf camp, or at the very least, experienced instructors and guides for all levels. Ding repair can usually be found by asking around in the line up or at any number of surf shops that have popped up and down the Coast.

Some of Costa Rica’s well known surf breaks.

Witch’s Rock

At the top of Guanacaste is Santa Rosa National Park, the location of the geological formation Witch’s Rock. Surfing Witch’s requires more than a rudimentary knowledge of the sport, as well as either boat or vehicle admission into the park.

Also known as Playa Naranjo, this wilderness point gets very strong offshore winds from December to March, has beach breaks of all directions, and works best with incoming high tide. By hiring one of the Costa Rican boat captains at Playas del Coco or Flamingo to get out to Witch’s Rock, you can also hit the other famous break in the area when the tide goes low. That would be Ollie’s Point is a long, beautiful right.

Playa Grande

Move down the coast to Playa Grande, a long pristine beach break with lefts and rights, featuring the most consistent offshore winds. Inside Las Baulas National Marine Park, Grande is also a protected nesting area for leatherback turtles.

Tamarindo River Mouth

Just across the estuary is the Tamarindo River mouth, which usually breaks right, but will go left depending on the sandbar. Be forewarned – this bay is very popular for surf instruction and a good ride might require dodging a few newbies getting their sea legs.

Playa Avellanas

You’re better off heading south about 10 kilometers to Playa Avellanas, because there the breaks are spread out. Choose from the other side of that rive rmouth – Little Hawaii’s rights-to-the-beach breaks in the middle – or paddle out front of the parking lot, where there is a point with left breaking waves over reef.

Playa Negra

The experienced surfers tend to flock to Playa Negra about 5 kilometers farther south of Avellanas. Know this: you’ll want a higher tide, because there are rocks here ,at this right pointbreak with fast waves. But you’ll love it.

Nosara

Anywhere farther south in Guanacaste, it is strongly recommended that you travel in a 4X4 vehicle, as the roads are rough – especially the closer you get to the coast. First up is Nosara which the high class style/trend magazine “W” once called the Hamptons of Costa Rica, meaning the famous and monied live or want to live there.

In the water, however, everyone is equal, and quite frankly, it’s not so crowded.

This beach break has rights and lefts with some shallow-rock reef lefts that get barreling with swell. Shortly south is another beach break called

Just before you come to the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula (technically part of Puntarenas province) and then going around it, there are numerous isolated and beautiful surf areas, usually reserved for athletes with good control of their boards.

Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa is one of those strange places where waves work best at low tide when they are big, hollow and fast.

Playa de Los Suecos Mal País is a more complex wave that gets hollow with size and offshore winds. Needs a good swell, but this left provides a quick take off and a long wall for lots of turns. The left of Punta Barrigona Mal País also needs a swell, but when it’s got it, this point break affords the advanced surfer a wild time.

Playa El Carme

And finally, between Santa Teresa and Mal Pais is Playa El Carme, a break with lots of fluctuating sandbars that provide short lefts and longer rights. This is a good wave for beginners.

All in all, the Pacific Northwest is a wealth of surf opportunities. Everyone is welcome to share the stoke, as long as they follow the number one rule of the water – respect the locals.

Author Ellen Zoe Golden

Liberia’s Tourism Chamber Helps Get the Message Out

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SINCE 1986, the Liberian Chamber of Tourism (CALITUR) has worked to promote the development of tourism-related businesses in the city of Liberia and throughout the province of Guanacaste. “In general terms, the chamber looks to bring tourists closer to tourism businesses,” said Norma Tinoco, vice-president of the chamber.

In addition to promoting regional tourism, CALITUR also is dedicated to studying the problems that affect the sector as a whole, with the goal of generating permanent solutions. The chamber aims to bring local tourism companies and commercial establishments closer together by providing them with opportunities to network.

“The chamber seeks to foster an open dialogue, where tourism providers can exchange experiences and information and learn from one another,” Tinoco explained. In general terms, the chamber seeks to serve as a permanent link between Guanacaste tourism businesses and the municipal and national governments. The chamber also hopes to ensure its members follow sustainable environmental practices.

THE chamber has more than 60 members involved in all types of tourism-related activities. Members include hotels such as Hotel Buena Vista Lodge, Rincón de la Vieja Lodge, Hotel Borinquen and Hotel El Bramadero, the Ecodesarrollo Papagayo tourism development complex and typical Guanacaste-style ranches, such as Costumbres y Tradiciones La Chácara and El Chapernal.

Additional members include National Car Rental, Alamo Rent-a-Car, Congo Trail Canopy Tour, Sendero Los Tres Monos, TQ3 Travel Solutions, Do It Center construction and building supplies, Souvenir Mundo el Recuerdo, the Liberia Airport Taxi Drivers’ Association and law firms Bufete Paniagua and BLP Abogados.

Guanacaste’s recent tourism-related growth and development and Liberia’s rapid transformation from a quiet small town to the region’s commercial hub have kept CALITUR busy and have forced it to intensify its efforts to promote the region.

“With that goal in mind, the chamber has opened a tourism information stand at   the LiberiaAirport. In the short run, we plan to open additional information stands, including some in Liberia,” Tinoco explained.

“As part of that same effort, CALITUR plans to begin publishing a tourism magazine that will be given out on planes coming  to Liberia,” he explained. “We also plan to create a Web site with tourism information on the region that will make it possible for tourists to get information on Guanacaste from their homes.”

TINOCO is confident Liberia will continue to grow. In her opinion, there is no reason for the current boom to end.

“Traditionally, excellent weather and beaches, mountain ranges and fantastic volcanoes have made Guanacaste a preferred tourism destination,” she explained.

“Today, the region has added high-quality hotels, marinas, golf courses, a shopping center with movie theaters, multinational chain fast-food restaurants, which have caste into the jewel of Central American tourism.”

However, to ensure the growth continues, she considers it essential for the government and the private sector to begin working closer together.

THE area’s  recent development givesus hope,” Tinoco explained. “The government, municipal as well as central, needs to establish the infrastructure – highways, streets, aqueducts, education, ports, airports – and the private sector must take risks to develop tourism activities – restaurants, bars, shops, coffee shops, book stores and special events.”

The chamber’s m embership is open toall tourism-related businesses operating in Guanacaste.

For more info, e-mail Norma Tinoco at ntinoco@anccar.com.

 

Saints, Bullfights, Folklore Mix at Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Festival

GUANACASTE is perhaps the one of the largest gems in Costa Rica’s cultural crown, with historic battles, huge handmade tortillas, cowboys, marimbas (large wooden xylophones) and the classic “weeepeepia” call announcing the joy of its people at each of their many fiestas.

Guanacastecos proudly show off their traditions, which include a fervent faith in their saints, at the fiestas patronales (municipal festivities) or fiestas populares and, of course, at the biggest fiesta, the Annexation of Guanacaste to Costa Rica, July 25, celebrated in Liberia and Santa Cruz.

In the fiestas patronales, the Guanacastecos give special attention to church masses and processions for the saint of the district. They also highlight cattle exhibits, horse parades and their famous bull fights, where cowboys demonstrate their abilities by holding themselves with a bredal ( rope) tied around a bucking bull.

The main fiestas in Nicoya are on Dec. 12, when they honor The Lady of Guadalupe. They present the traditional Danza de la Yeguita (The Little Mare Dance), when people dance with the icon of the Virgin in a procession. Nicoyanos also celebrate Saint Blass during the last week of January and the first of February.

PEOPLE can visit Abangares during the week of April 23, when citizens celebrate their patron saint San Jorge. According to Andri Martínez, at the Municipality of Abangares, on April 23, people from approximately 15 towns in the district hold a procession for their namesake saints, lead by the archbishop and Saint George. They also celebrate San Buena Aventura mid-April, but with less festivity. The fiestas populares are in late March.

La Cruz is already preparing its fiesta, opening April 24 and closing May 3, the Day of the Holy Cross.

“We’ll have bull fights, folkloric dances, folklore music, stories, marimbas and a special concert by Nicaraguan Trova singer Carlos Mejía Godoy,” says Renán Cepeda, president of the Fiestas Commission. Another attraction is the Cabalgata (horse tour), which goes to the beach, up to the hills and returns to town. A mariachi and some bands from Nicaragua will join the fiesta. According to Cepeda, the commission will donate some of the revenue for scholarships.

Bagaces has its La Feria del Rodeo (Cowboy Fiesta and Cattle Auction) in May. On June 5, the citizens celebrate San Caralampio. According to Tina Alvarado at the municipality, the saint is miraculous. Alvarado explains that cholera took a lot of lives many years ago, until people prayed to the saint for help.

Since the last person died on June 5, they decided to dedicate the day to the saint. The fiesta includes, processions, a turno or small fair, an auction and carreras de cintas – horse riders have to take a ribbon off a ring with a small stick as fast as they can.

Santa Cruz celebrates its patron saint Santo Cristo de Esquipulas mid-January. The historical city offers visitors the best of its folkloric dances, marimbas and, of course, bull fights. Residents prepare their famous chicha (liquor made of corn), cajetas (traditional candy) and huge homemade tortillas.

IN perhaps the most unusual celebration, on Holy Saturday, residents of Ortega de Santa Cruz hold what they call LaLagarteada. According to Jessica López, journalist of local TV Channel 36, the idea is to find an alligator and take it to the soccer field. The next day, the towns people free the reptile – the process is monitored by a member of the Ministry of Natural Resources, Energy and Mines (MINAE) to ensure the animal is not hurt.

“The tradition attracts many people –even National Geographic came once to do a documentary,” says López. “Before, people killed the alligator to use its grease for medicine.”

In Santa Barbara, people hold the Maya New Year, including ceremonies with Maya priests, and special food cooked in solar ovens, in February 24-25 at Casa del Sol.

LIBERIA has its big fair the first two weeks of March. Costa Ricans from around the country usually attend this fair and also the Cattle Fair around July 25 to celebrate Annexation. It usually features concerts, bullfights, sports, cultural events, rides, cattle and horse exhibits and cowboy demonstrations.

Hojancha’s Fiestas are mid-March, honoring Saint Joseph and its fiestas populares are the last week of December. Cañas festivities are held in late March. People in Tilarán celebrate Saint Anthony on June  13 and hold their festejos populares in April, including cattle, fish and bird exhibits.

Some festival dates vary according to the weather and when Easter falls.

Sea Turtles in Costa Rica: From Olive Ridleys to Vanishing Leatherbacks

FOR the ecotourist interested in some quality turtle viewing, Guanacaste may be one of the best places on the planet. The region is home to two of only eight beaches worldwide in which Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) sea turtles gather. About 200,000 turtles visit the two beaches in each month between July and December, said Carlos Mario Orrego, manager of Ostional National Wildlife Refuge.

“That’s an average. It can be higher. Sometimes we can have as many as 800,000 in a month,” he said. The two beaches are Playa Nancite, in Santa Rosa National Park, and Playa Nosara in the Ostional National Wildlife Refuge, according to Environment and Energy Ministry (MINAE) officials. Though the largest gatherings take place during the rainy season, turtles arrive at the park yearround as individuals or in small groups, Orrego said.

OLIVE Ridleys are among the smallest sea turtles, weighing less than 100 pounds and normally measuring only about two feet, according to statistics from the Humane Society of the United States. Ridleys can dive up to 500 feet, and their diet consists of a variety of vegetation, as well as small fish, crabs and mollusks.

In contrast, another turtle native to Costa Rican waters, the American Pacific Leatherback Turtle (Dermochelys coriacea), is not only the largest marine turtle, but is the world’s largest reptile. The turtles can weigh up to a ton and have been recorded as growing to as long as nine feet, though they average around six feet.

They are named for their unique soft, leather-like shell. It is perhaps fitting, then, that nearly 100% of their diet consists of soft food – namely jellyfish. The leatherback is also among the world’s deepest-diving air-breathing animals. They can reach up to 4,000 feet, depths surpassed only by sperm whales and elephant seals, according to the Humane Society.

WHILE the population of the Olive Ridley appears to be relatively stable, scientists warn that the leatherback could be completely extinct in the next 10 years. That conclusion was reached during the 24th Annual International Sea Turtle Symposium, held during the last two weeks of February in San José and involving more than 1,000 scientists from around the world (TT, Feb. 27).

Leatherbacks have fallen victim to accidental catches by long-line fisherman, and their overall population has dropped 97% in the past 20 years, said Roderic Mast. Now the leatherbacks can be seen only rarely at Ostional, said the refuge’s Orrego. He added that only 40 to 50 of the animals visit the park between October and March.

Orrego said tourists interested in having local experts show them the best places to see turtles should contact a local organization called “Guías Locales de Ostional

FOR better luck finding the vanishing animals, visitors may want to consider Playa Grande in Las Baulas National Marine Park, which park director Rodney Piedra calls “the most important for sea turtles in the Western Pacific,” as it is the most important breeding site for the animals in this part of the world.

The massive reptile’s decline has been highly visible at the park, Piedra said. He said in 1988 the park counted 1,365 females laying eggs, and in 2003, only 155. However, that number is an improvement from the 2001 count of only 69. Other species of sea turtles face threats as well, and not only from overfishing. Turtle eggs, for example, are popular snacks, and selling them can be a lucrative venture – the preliminary results of a study conducted by the World Wildlife Fund, released during this year’s Sea Turtle Symposium, showed that in Ostional in 2002 (the only place in the country where limited harvesting is allowed), sea turtle eggs brought in $992,850 (TT, Feb. 27).

The same study showed that non-consumptive use of turtles, such as eco-tourism, could be more lucrative. During the same year in Tortuguero, on the Northern Caribbean coast of the country, the study showed that 26,292 visitors brought an estimated $6.7 million.

Robert Goodier contributed to this article.

Proposed ‘Sun Route’ on Horizon

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IN recent months, the Public Works and Transport Ministry (MOPT) has proposed developing two new road projects that would bring Guanacaste closer than ever before to the rest of the country, the daily La Nación reported.

The proposed projects are “La Ruta del Sol” (The Sun Route), which would run parallel to the north Pacific shore from Paquera in Puntarenas to La Cruz in Guanacaste, and expanding the

Inter-American Highway

from two to four lanes from the crossing to Port Caldera to the TempisqueRiver detour.

MOPT is conducting a public bidding process to name the companies in charge of drafting the plans for the projects. Public Works and Transport Minister Javier Chaves said work on these projects could begin as early as late 2006. No word yet on the estimated costs of each project.