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COSTA RICA'S LEADING ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER

Costa Rica’s Bird Migration Crisis: Conservation Efforts and Habitat Protection

BY June, approximately 245 fewer species of birds will be flying through Costa Rica. No, a mass extinction is not on the immediate horizon, although scientists say destruction of habitats makes such a threat a possibility. These birds leave every year, flying north for the rainy season. UNLIKE its inverse – flying south for the winter – this phrase does not quite roll off the tongue.

This, however, could change if recent efforts by the Environment Ministry and the Costa Rican Ornithological Association (AOCR) to raise awareness and protection of migratory birds are successful. On Tuesday, Environment and Energy Minister Carlos Manuel Rodríguez signed an official decree declaring the second Saturday of April National Migratory Bird Day in Costa Rica.

ALTHOUGH one day alone will not protect the country’s migratory bird populations, the recognition is an important step toward accomplishing the association’s goals of education and protection, according to Ornithological Association president Mario Ossenbach.

While the migration of birds south during the winter months is a well-known phenomenon in North America, and the subject of legends, traditions, poems and celebrations, the flight of the birds back north as the rainy season begins has received much less attention in Costa Rica, Ossenbach said.

For example, did you know that the ruby throated hummingbird, a bird weighing 4 grams, can fly up to 800 kilometers without stopping during its migration between northern Minnesota and Costa Rica? Approximately 250 of the more than 850 species of birds documented in Costa Rica are migratory.

PROTECTING the habitats of migratory birds, even though they are fewer in number than permanent resident species, is much more difficult than protecting the habitats of the latter, Ossenbach said. “Protecting a bird that is only in one zone is relatively easy,” he said. “Protecting a bird that makes a migration (means) we have to protect the (flight) corridors, and when there are latitudinal migrations, we have to coordinate protection policies between countries.”

For example, the effort to protect the peregrine falcon included an international fight to ban the highly toxic pesticide DDT, according to the Illinois Raptor Center’s Web site. When ingested by peregrine falcons, DDT causes the birds’ eggshells to become thin and break easily. Although DDT is still used in some countries (not Costa Rica), the population has recovered and the birds – which can reach speeds of 200 miles per hour when hunting – can be seen in Costa Rica on their migration south.

THE reality that many birds’ habitats cross national lines is what inspired International Migratory Bird Day, which falls on the second Saturday in April in Central and South America, and the second Saturday in May every year in North America. The month difference is based on the departure of birds from the south and the arrival of the birds in the north, but the message is the same, Ossenbach explained.

Costa Rica has become a birdwatchers’ haven, not only for its resident populations of scarlet macaws and toucans, but also for the large variety of migratory birds seen here, including raptors, warblers, orioles and coastal birds such as sand pipers, boobies, terns and gulls.

THE migration of hawks and vultures in October and November is one of the most spectacular opportunities for birdwatching in the country, according to Ossenbach. Millions of the raptors can be seen during their migration to South America along Costa Rica’s Atlantic coast, from the northern plains to Limón. Because the birds do not eat during their journey, which can last two months, they must conserve energy by flying with air currents.

Rising hot air lifts the birds, which ascend in circles, until they reach considerable heights. They then glide with great speed until they lose too much height and must repeat the process. Peregrine falcons and ospreys also can be sighted during the raptor migration. There is a resident osprey population as well.

THE migrations of many smaller birds are shrouded by the darkness of night. Orioles, summer tanagers, rose-breasted grosbeaks and warblers prefer to travel in the dark, which hides them from predators and provides cooler temperatures. Birdwatchers often can see them eating during the day, beginning in September, on Costa Rica’s central plateau and in the northwestern province of Guanacaste.

Costa Rica also provides opportunity to catch glimpses of the five bird species that migrate north to Costa Rica from the south to lay eggs: the swallow-tailed kite, piratic flycatcher, sulphur-bellied flycatcher, plumbeous kite and yellow-green vireo. ALTHOUGH observing these birds can be fascinating – revealing things such as swallows catching and eating insects in flight – the Costa Rican Ornithological Association hopes to take birdwatching to new heights by increasing the study of ornithology in Costa Rica.

“The statistics of migration in Costa Rica are very recent and very limited,” said biologist and group member Julio Sánchez, adding that he thinks there are fewer than 10 ornithologists in the country. “What we do know is that the populations of the vast majority of species are declining,” he said.

Early studies suggest human impact has affected bird migration not just through destruction of habitat, but also by supplying  needed resources, according to Ossenbach. Birds that find the food they need from birdfeeders put out by humans do not migrate, he said.

JOINT studies have been initiated between researchers in the United States and the ANAI Association in Talamanca to  determine how many raptors leave the United States, and how many arrive in Costa Rica. Ornithological Association members hope such studies will be maintained for the long term. “Two, three, four years of study does not mean anything when talking about a species,” group member Hernán Araya said.

“We realize too late how we are impacting these birds.”

Nicaragua’s El Porvenir Coffee Coop Building a Sustainable Future

EL PORVENIR DE POSOLTEGA, Nicaragua – Once divided by the destructive politics of war, residents of this rural mountaintop community in the northwest department of Chinandega have discovered common ground in their poverty and are working to unite in a new culture of communal labor in a village looking to the future.

Many of the middle-aged men of El Porvenir (which means “The Future”) are ex-Sandinista or ex-Contra combatants, and some of the older men are former members of the notoriously repressive Somoza National Guard. But all that is in the past, a painful chapter in the nation’s history that is no longer discussed, says community leader René Gaitan.

NOW, this farming village of 255 inhabitants is coming together as an organic coffee cooperative to try to overcome its marginalization and shape a new tomorrow for the children. And like many grassroots efforts in Nicaragua, they are doing so without any help from a government they have grown to mistrust.

“[In the past] we were all used by different political interests, by the government of Somoza and by the government of the Sandinistas; 50,000 people were killed for nothing,” said Gaitan, a former Sandinista revolutionary soldier and founding member of the community in 1982.

“When ex-members of the Contra came up to our village after the war, we saw that they were poor campesinos just like us, and they joined with no problem,” he said. “The past is closed,” he stressed, as he watched a group of children – likely unaware of the former conflicts of their parents – play baseball on a dusty patch of land.

El Porvenir’s modest 2,000-acre swath of mountain range, almost half of which is protected dry forest, is communally held land – a product of the Sandinista government’s agrarian reform efforts in the early 1980s. Two decades later, there are still no paved roads, no access to health care and no electricity or running water. The 43 families here live in simple homes with dirt floors and thatched roofs. Drinking water is supplied by the rains.

But success and progress are measured differently in the Nicaraguan countryside, and El Porvenir has become an example of what a community can accomplish when it gets organized and sets common goals. During the past three years, the village has managed to expand its basic-education coverage – an agreed-upon priority for the community – from pre-school through sixth grade, and now has three teachers who trek up the mountainside each week from the city of León to live with the community and give classes. Construction has already begun on a new cinderblock classroom, paid for with proceeds from coffee sales.

To economically support its bootstrap efforts, four years ago the community formed a coffee cooperative, which has been certified “organic” by a U.S. certification team. The coffee is grown on 120 acres of land, leaving 300 acres for the cultivation of basic food staples for the village. Approximately 800 acres have been set aside as community-protected dry forest.

With the help of U.S. activists Donna Tabor, a Granada resident, and Mike Woodard, of the Nicaraguan-based nongovernmental organization Jubilee House Community, El Porvenir was able to find a U.S. buyer for its coffee two years ago. The cooperative sells its modest harvest at a preferential cost of $200 per 100-pound sack (as opposed to the $45 it would fetch on the open market) to a Pittsburgh non-governmental organization Building New Hope and Pittsburgh coffee roaster “La Prima Espresso Coffee.”

The village cooperative produced and roasted 450 sacks of coffee last year, 220 of which have already been sold in the United States. LA Prima owner John Notte has nothing but praise for the quality of El Porvenir’s coffee.

“We give the coffee a fairly dark roast, and as far as other Arabica coffees we carry, it ranks in the top five,” he told The Tico Times this week. “Excellent flavor, light to medium body and very few imperfections. I don’t consider myself a professional taster, but I have been tasting and grading coffees for 10 years and give El Porvenir an ‘A’ rating.”

Cooperative Coffees, a U.S. trade union of 17 social-justice-minded roasters and coffee houses, also has taken notice of El  Porvenir and agreed to purchase a portion of the 2004 harvest, offering the promise of a more stable, long-term market in the future.

Yet despite the town’s modest accomplishments, El Porvenir cannot yet boast a rags-to-riches story. Gregorio Eugenio Laguna, president of the village cooperative, explained the community made the mistake in 2000 of taking out a short-term loan for $19,600 at the exorbitant interest rate of 36% to fund its attempted cultivation of a bean harvest for export.

The crop failed, and the community has had to pinch every córdoba for the past four years to pay back the debt. The village has managed to repay the lender all but $2,000 on its principal, but through great sacrifice. Coffee farmers have gone three years without receiving any take-home pay for their labor.

Cooperative leaders say they hope to pay off the debt in full this year. Laguna estimates that El Porvenir is about 60% self-sufficient but is still heavily dependent on foreign donations and outside help, such as that brought by Jubilee House Community.

“Honestly, nothing is self-sufficient in Nicaragua,” he said. “The main problem is that there is no long-term credit or financing available in Nicaragua. If we had that, we could become self-sufficient.”

Another challenge to the community is recent irregular climate changes, which the farmers blame on the aftereffects of Hurricane Mitch. El Porvenir was in the path of the hurricane that tore through Central America in October 1998, causing a massive landslide in the nearby community of Las Casitas that buried alive an estimated 2,000-plus people.

Since that storm, rain schedules have been erratic, making it difficult to plant, Gaitan said. The community blames its failed bean cultivation on the unstable climate.

Perhaps the biggest obstacle facing the community is the difficulty in getting certified “fair trade” – a label that ensures fair compensation for farmers and the promise of private long-term financing from roasters during one of the worst global coffee crisis in decades.

“Fair trade,” according to Matt Earley, founder of Cooperative Coffee member JustCoffee, “offers a model of economic interaction where all involved get what they need, where trade is based on respect and real relationships, and where no participant is exploited.” Earley said fair trade was originally intended to make consumers think about market conditions, while breaking the rules of a free-trade-driven “modern hyper-capitalism.”

Although El Porvenir claims it complies with all the environmental and labor regulations needed to be certified “fair trade,” activists claim the community’s isolated location and relatively small coffee harvest have deterred fair-trade labeling giants in the United States and Europe from trekking up the mountain to visit El Porvenir.

The village applied for certification from the German-based fair-trade pioneer Fair Labeling Organization (FLO) three years ago, but has never been visited by a representative of the company’s spin-off labeling group FLO-Cert Ltd.

“FAIR trade has become a for-profit business, and it is more profitable for certifiers to go to areas that are more easily accessible and with greater production outputs,” explained Jubilee House’s Woodard, who has been at the forefront of El Porvenir’s attempts to break into the fast-growing market niche in the United States and Europe.

JustCoffee’s Earley agrees that the fair-trade movement has divided into two camps: the market-driven camp that  has patented the fair-trade label andcharges producers a certification fee, and the ideologically-driven camp that just wants to extend a helping hand to the “little guy.”

JustCoffee and three other members of Cooperative Coffee have decided to break with the “fair-trade” establishment and pursue a model they claim is more consistent with the original ideology of the movement.

THE cost of being certified “fair trade” by FLO also could be a deterrent for the community of El Porvenir.

The one-time certification fee FLO would charge a producer the size of El Porvenir is 2,000 Euros, or $2,431.

Additionally, FLO charges an annual $607 re-certification fee, plus $.02 for each kilo of coffee sold under the “fairtrade” label, for a total cost to El Porvenir of $1,100 for a good year’s harvest.

While the mainstream “fair-trade” market still appears elusive to El Porvenir, the community remains busy focusing on building something new, and hopes a socially conscientious segment of the foreign market will notice its efforts and support the cause.

Author Records Liberia’s History in Tribute to Settlers

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In perhaps the most comprehensive book on the town ever published in English, “Liberia, my tribute to its settlers, to my people,” by Juan Rafael Muñoz, takes an in-depth look at Guanacaste’s largest town, leaving virtually no topic untouched.

Covering history, geography, topography, industry and culture, the book gives readers an overview of Liberia and Guanacaste. Muñoz accomplishes the difficult task of informing and educating readers without overwhelming them with historical facts, dates and details. The use of historical documents and accounts bring color to the events that Muñoz covers.

The work is divided into 12 sections, seven focusing on history from pre-colonization to the beginning of the 21st century.

Muñoz explores Liberia’s unique geography, as well as the agricultural industry in the area, recounting its history and the effect it has had on the region.

In his final chapter, he explores the changes Guanacaste has undergone in recent years, such the increase of air traffic at DanielOduberInternationalAirport.

He also addresses the rich culture the area has to offer, including poetry, dance and folklore.

Muñoz adds color throughout the work by incorporating interesting little-known facts, such as that the town of Liberia was founded by residents of Granada, Nicaragua, who were fleeing the pirate attacks that menaced that city.

Although heavy in content, the book is a rather easy read and is incredibly thorough in its information. Numerous photos and illustrations throughout the work give further insight into the topics.

For anyone interested in Liberia, or the surrounding area, Muñoz’s “Liberia” is definitely recommended reading.

The book can be purchased online by going to www.liberia.co.cr. A list of stores that sell the book is available on the Web site.

 

Nicaragua Tours Help Tourists Make a Run for the Border

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FOR passport stamp collectors (those epic vacationers who want more time in Costa Rica), or for those looking for a change of scenery from Guanacaste, two travel agencies will escort you to the islands and history-packed cities of Nicaragua.

The largest country in Central America with the lowest population density, Nicaragua is chock-full of surfy beaches, Spanish colonial cities, churches and cathedrals, rainforest trails, villages hidden among coffee and pineapple plantations, islands, enclaves of artists on those islands, handmade rums, leather, ceramic and wood crafts and open ranges still traversed by horses and oxcarts.

TAM Travel Corporation (667-0710, guanacaste@tamtravel.com) takes visitors on a tour billed as a look at the “heart and soul” of Nicaragua. Leaving from various pick-up points in Guanacaste, vans cart tourists across the border (an “interesting experience,” their promotional material notes) and into the hands of a professional TAM guide.

The tour begins w ith the Lake Nicaragua (or Cocibolca) and the Masaya Crafts Market, where colorful handicrafts are displayed in the artisans’ imaginatively arrayed stands. Next on the menu are the 365 small islands just off the shore of the city of Granada – Las Isletas.

Granada itself, called the highlight of the trip, is the oldest colonial city in mainland America, founded by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba in 1524. There, guests lunch at the Mediterraneo Restaurant, which specializes in Nicaraguan and Spanish, cuisine in a large, restored adobe house. The afternoon is spent walking among the city’s attractions, such as baroque churches, in the historical center.

Pick-ups are Thursdays at hotels in Tamarindo, Brasilito and Papagayo from 5 to 6 a.m., arriving at the office in Guardia de Liberia, near the city of Liberia, at 6:30 a.m. Tours cost $130 per person.

SWISS Travel (282-4869, e-mail info@swisstravelcr.com) and Careli Tours (505-278-6919, e-mail info@carelitours. com, www.carelitours.com) operate 10-12 hour day trips from Guanacaste to Nicaragua that cost around $130 per person and include transportation, lunch, park entrance fees and border-crossing fees.

They leave Tuesdays and Thursdays. (Multi-day packages are available on request).

In the Managua City Tour, visitors can traipse around the historic center of the capital of Nicaragua. The tour visits the NationalPalace; the footprints of Acahualinca, which are 6,000-year-old proof that humans did not drive back then, they walked; and finally it takes tourists to the new cathedral and the commercial district.

The MasayaVolcanoNational Park tour visits a twin volcano with five volcanic cones and the crater Santiago, which has been steaming non-stop since 1946.

At the Masaya Market, where people still pay attention to folklore, visitors can shop for handicrafts, huge hammocks, embroidered dresses, woven tapestries, leather items, wood carvings, sculptured masks and ceramics.

In Granada, visitors will have a peek some of its more than 20 churches and buildings that are more than 200 years old.

The tour visits the convent of San Francisco, founded in 1529, which houses an impressive collection of pre-Columbian idols. Then it stops by the “Casa de los tres mundos,” and its exhibits of local and foreign artists. It concludes with a motor boat ride around Las Isletas.

LEÓN and Hervideros is a tour of León, the former capital of Nicaragua. It held that title for 300 years and is home to many colonial buildings and churches.

There, guests will learn about some of the country’s first settlers and the Spanish Conquistadors who invaded the area. Then the tour visits the steaming craters of San Jacinto.

The White Towns is an educational excursion through the countryside culture of Nicaragua, seeing how people there make a living and learning about the products they sell. The tour visits the town of Niquinohomo, where national Nicaraguan hero Augusto César Sandino was born, and pays a visit to a family that makes bamboo baskets. Then guests are off to the town of Catarina to check out the ornamental plants.

THE Mombacho Volcano tour, of the nature reserve, heads up a volcano covered by a dense cloud forest from the bottom to the top, at more than 850 meters above sea level. It is an educational hike that highlights the forest’s incredible biodiversity.

The Canopy Tour is the old Costa Rican favorite, this time in Nicaragua. It is 17 platforms linked together by three ladders and other suspended structures in the heights of century-old trees in the coffee plantation of Cutirre Farm.

Swiss Travel and Careli offer multi-day package tours of Granada, León, Selva Negra, Ometepe, CornIsland and other places. They arrange hotel accommodation and car rental.

Other ways that Careli makes the trip painless are the inclusion of all fees in the ticket price, which means immigration and departure fees to and from Nicaragua, departure tax from Nicaragua, air-conditioned transport, two bilingual guides and meals.

TOURS last approximately 14 hours, unless other arrangements are made. Operators recommend that travelers bring their passports, comfortable shoes, camera, film, light clothing and suntan lotion.

 

Sunny Spanish Schools Help You Get Your Message Across

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THERE are thousands of reasons to learn Spanish, and nearly as many places to learn in Guanacaste.

Spanish is spoken by more than 400 million people. It is the official language in 21 countries – from Uruguay to the Dominican Republic.

For those who live in Costa Rica, the reason to learn the language is obvious. But for those who are just passing through – for a few weeks or a few months – a little lesson in Spanish can provide convenience, job opportunities and a glimpse into the country beyond stunning beaches and fascinating wildlife.

Most experts agree the best way to learn a language is through immersion, so those living in Costa Rica are halfway there. But few would deny that formal study is also very important. A number of schools in Guanacaste combine the two in a way that, with a little self-discipline, can add up to success in Spanish for both residents and visitors.

“YOU can’t really learn a language without learning a culture,” said Barbara Miller, subdirector of Intercultura LanguageSchool(656-0127, www.samaralanguageschool.com) in SámaraBeach.

For this reason, in addition to four hours of formal lessons a day, students at Intercultura are invited to participate in cooking and dancing classes, given in Spanish. Lessons also frequently take students out of the classroom to restaurants and markets, where they can put to use what they have learned and they must speak spontaneously, Miller said. Because Sámara is more than just a tourist town, plenty of opportunities exist for such interaction.

Classes are $250 a week and reduced to as low as $180 for an increased number of weeks.

Centro Panamericano de Idiomas (CPI, 654-5002, www.cpi-edu.com) in Flamingo has a similar approach. The school also supplements its four-hour daily classes with salsa and merengue lessons, Spanish movie nights and classes on special subjects, such as Costa Rican fruit.

Students can also easily flow between classes in Flamingo and those at their campuses in Monteverde and Heredia, according to Carolina Najarro.

“Students can both study and get to know the country,” she said.

Classes at CPI are $240 for one week, $450 for two weeks, $630 for three weeks and $830 for four weeks. Classes for residents of Costa Rica are $185 for one week.

Students at Instituto Guanacasteco de Idiomas (686-6948, www.spanishcostarica.com) in Nicoya and Sámara are invited to learn about the country by attending monthly town meetings, where they can ask questions about life, politics and history in Guanacaste.

Classes there are $295 for one week, $595 for two weeks, $795 for three weeks and $1,095 for four weeks.

“We always try to do as much interaction as possible, not just in the class with a book, but instead using different things in the environment,” said Shirley Herrera, academic director of Wayra Spanish Institute (653-0359, www.spanish-wayra.co.cr) in Tamarindo. In addition to the standard four hours a day, five days a week, Wayra offers classes in specialties such as medicine, business and law in Spanish.

Classes are $200 for one week, $390 for two weeks, $570 for three weeks and $760 for a month.

InterculturaLanguageSchool, CPI, Instituto Guanacasteco and Wayra Spanish Institute also offer homestay programs to visiting students.

FOR those living in Guanacaste, but unable to attend four-hour daily classes, Rey de Nosara Language School (682-0215, www.reydenosara.itgo.com) in Nosara and Instituto Britanico in Liberia both provide more flexibility in their classes, particularly private lessons.

Most of these schools focus on conversation during lessons. However, grammar, reading comprehension and writing also play a significant role in some schools.

“You can’t learn a language without learning grammar,” said Reynaldo Ohrt of Rey de Nosara. “You can’t have a conversation unless you understand grammar.”

Unlike most teachers, Ohrt speaks Spanish as a second language, like his students.

Although many would see this as a disadvantage, Ohrt believes he is at an advantage.

“I understand much better what the problems of learning are,” Ohrt said. “I have students who tried to learn in Guatemala or somewhere else, and said teachers there were really nice, but couldn’t explain things in a way so students could understand.”

Classes at Rey de Nosara are $15 an hour for one person, $18 an hour for two people, and $21 an hour for three people.

CLASS size is also an important consideration when selecting a school. Most schools limit classes to under six students, although some place the cap at two.

“The larger the class size, the longer it takes someone to learn a language,” said Gary Rose of Instituto Guanacasteco. “But I think two students with one teacher is even better than one-on-one, because one on-one is almost too much.”

All schools test students to determine the appropriate level to begin instruction. Many also work with universities in the United States and England to offer university credit. These schools are not, however, geared only to college students, and boast a wide range of ages in student populations.

Instituto Britanico’s Liberia branch offers a “Spanish Express” class for 15 hours a week at $180. A40-hour group class is $440 and a 20-hour private class, where the student determines the schedule, is $440.

Homestays have additional charges.

 

Guanacaste Schools for Kids GrowingWell

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ASK any real estate agent what families consider when moving to a new home, and most will include schools on the list. The answer is no different when families are thinking of moving to Costa Rica from a foreign country.

For years, opportunities for bilingual education were limited to San José and the Central Valley. But as more families move to Guanacaste, so follow the schools to serve them.

“People from New England, California … and other countries come and visit Guanacaste and see what our school has to offer, and they start thinking, ‘We could move here,’” said Jeff Wornstaff, principal at Country Day Guanacaste (654-5042, www.cdsgte.com), which opened four years ago in Brasilito. “The school has almost become a magnet.”

Like its campus in Escazú – which has been educating foreign and Costa Rican students for 43 years – Country Day School Guanacaste is accredited in the United States and based on the U.S. school year and curriculum.

While the school focuses on the basics for kindergarten through 12th grade – math, science, history, geography, English and Spanish – it does so in a way Wornstaff calls “hands-on.”

STUDENTS study marine biology off Guanacaste’s shore. A rainforest unit takes place in the OsaPeninsula in the Southern Zone. Aschool animal farm and orchard for student study are in development on the 35-acre campus. And when students learn about geometry, they do so by climbing trees and looking at the angles of the school’s ropes course.

“The best learning comes when students are actually doing something, producing something,” Wornstaff said. “It seems very simple, but it is profound.”

Rather than a guided tour, Country Day’s students prefer to collect samples and do experiments and research when they take field trips to Monteverde in the central highlands, Wornstaff said.

“A lot of time teaching is done out of a book, but in this way, students don’t get the relevance of what is being taught,” he said.

“When creating a product, they get the relevance. And if it is relevant, it is meaningful.”

The majority of instruction at CountryDay School is done in English, by teachers trained and certified in the United States.

Those looking for a more bilingual experience have several other options in Guanacaste.

Also a branch of a longer-standing campus, Atlantic College(845-2245), opened in Liberia in February.

With only 16 students, the high school is much smaller than the other bilingual school in the area – Academia Teocali (666-1914), the oldest elementary and high school in Liberia.

HOWEVER, AtlanticCollege administrators are confident the growing population of Guanacaste will allow it to develop into an institution similar to its sister school in Limón. It is based on the same principal of providing an integrated education based on human rights and social communication, according to Emilia Durán, the school’s general director. The school has Costa Rican accreditation, and teachers are graduates of Costa Rican education programs.

Like Academia Teocali, math, some sciences and English literature are given in English. Both schools say that while the majority of their students are Costa Rican, they attract students from all over the world.

Although foreign parents can choose to send their children to any number of Costa Rican schools, some still feel limited by the number of options in Guanacaste.

“I wish somebody would open up another school for older children,” said parent Janet Brager.

“There are a lot of options for kids under the age of 7, but for older ages there are few.”

Brager, who has U.S. teacher accreditation up to Grade 4, is the director of one such school for younger students in Playa Potrero. Escuela La Mariposa (654-4420, www.escuelamariposa.com) currently serves toddlers through first graders.

Brager hopes to add a new grade every year. Teachers have U.S. teaching degrees, and are often volunteers embarking on their teaching career. The school is in the process of applying for Costa Rican accreditation.

Although the students are young, teachers at MariposaSchool give early lessons in environmental education by teaching gardening, composting and recycling.

“We don’t let them use plastic baggies to bring their lunch in, they have to use washable lunch containers,” Brager said.

Other instruction is focused on the arts and languages – teaching the students, equally native-English-speaking and native-Spanish-speaking, the opposite language.

STUDENTS at Instituto Bilingüe de Guanacaste (827-2928) in Playas de Coco receive the majority of their lessons in Spanish, according to director Shirley Bergeron. Bergeron then follows up with a parallel curriculum in English, not only helping the students’ language skills, but reiterating lessons learned, she said. The school is accredited in Costa Rica.

The elementary school burned down last year, along with a library Bergeron was attempting to build for the Playas del Coco community. But since reopening in February, Bergeron has found a new home in a renovated restaurant and is confident the school will continue to grow beyond the fourth grade it currently serves.

Escuela Primaria del Pacífico Norte (845-2245), the elementary school of Atlantic College, also hopes to grow in student population. It currently serves 25 students in kindergarten through third grade.

The school has Costa Rican accreditation, and teachers are graduates of Costa Rican education programs.

The AtlanticCollege philosophy of providing integrated education – building both the cognitive and sensitive part of a student’s being – carries through in this elementary school, Durán said.

“We teach a culture of peace and are very conscious of when a child feels good and when they do not feel good,” she said.

 

Guanacaste Spas: Relax – There Are Plenty to Go Around

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WITH all the rushing around and seeing sights, visitors to Guanacaste may want a good reason to take a break from taking a break. If the sunshine and beaches aren’t enough, plenty of opportunities exist to let the stress slip away with mud baths, hot springs, seaweed wraps and healing stone massages.

In truth, Guanacaste’s natural surroundings not only provide the perfect backdrop for the relaxing techniques of holistic healing, but also some of the materials.

Depending on the type and spa, massage prices are between $60 and $80 for one hour. Wraps and scrubs are between $45 and $60 for 50 minutes. Packages are also offered at most spas, including a combination of manicure, pedicure, facial, massage or wrap, for between $100 and $200. Couples massages are also offered at most spas.

Casa Spa Punta Islita (661-4044, www.hotelpuntaislita.com) offers services such as Volcanic Mud Wrap, Guanacaste Citrus Scrub and Tropical Fruit Facial.

“We try to find the curative powers of the water and nature,” said Dorela Muica, manager of the spa at Punta Islita Resort near Corozalito on the NicoyaPeninsula.

Fusion Day Spa (670-0914) in Almendros de Ocotal, near Playas del Coco, also taps into local resources, offering a sea-salt body polish and a corn-andhoney exfoliation. And Serenity Spa (654-4501) at Paradisus Playa Conchal uses coffee to soften and exfoliate the skin.

WHILE to some these services may sound like just pampering, spa owners maintain the treatments – particularly massage – offer curative elements.

In addition to relaxing muscles and increasing circulation, research shows massage reduces heart rate, lowers blood pressure and increases endorphins, according to Holisticonline.com.

The online resource also says massage improves alertness and performance in office workers, alleviates pain in migraine sufferers and helps premature infants gain weight faster.

“Some people are just looking for touch, which many don’t get enough of,” said Michael Gulla, part owner of La Vida Spa (682-8090) at The Sanctuary Resort in Playa Azul near Nosara. “Others have injuries, where deep-tissue massage helps, or chronic back problems. And for others it is just stress release. Most North American tourists come in here because they can’t unwind.”

La Vida Spa currently offers the traditional services of massage, facials, body wraps, nail care and energy therapy, such as reiki. Gulla is also in the process of expanding the spa to create a unique healing garden.

Seven rock pools, seating four people at a time, will feature various treatments based on themes and surrounded by appropriate gardens, Gulla said. For example, the Polynesian pool will be filled with green tea and ginger and the Costa Rican pool will be filled with warm mud.

Costa Rica’s volcanic mud is legendary for its therapeutic powers, according to spa owners. It not only draws toxins out of the body, but also imparts vitamins, minerals that nourish the skin.

AS if nature itself started the spa trend in Guanacaste, the area’s geology and volcanic activity provide more than just the ingredients for relaxation techniques.

Natural spas and mud baths can be found in or around Rincón de la Vieja and Tenorio national parks.

Approximately 25 kilometers northeast of Liberia, Rincón de la Vieja National Park offers the opportunity to bathe in hot springs and at least see the source of the mud that spas find so useful, although the extremely hot temperatures make bathing in it dangerous.

The park has two entrances – Las Pailas and Santa María – and charges a $6 entrance fee. An additional $3 is charged to use an access road necessary to arrive at the Las Pailas entrance.

The hot springs, which are completely natural, are about 3 km from the Santa María entrance. They can reach up to 42°C (115°F), according to Gerardo Vadilla, owner of Rinconcito Lodge (666-2764). Because no public transportation goes to Rincón de la Vieja, visiting requires a car, a tour or a stay at one of the area’s lodges, such as Rinconcito. These include Rincón de la Vieja Mountain Lodge (www.rincondelaviejalodge.com) , Buenavista Lodge (www.buenavistacr.com) and Hotel Borinquen (690-1900, www.borinquenresort.com).

The latter two facilities have private hot springs and offer some spa services.

“It is a way to enjoy what nature offers us, while being surrounded by that nature,” said Chester López of Hotel Boriquen.

NATURAL hot springs can also be found near the Río Celeste in Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio, about an hour and a half east of Liberia. Taxis are available to the park from the town of Bijagua.

Lodging is available at Heliconia Ecotourist Lodge (466-8483).

“People don’t come to Costa Rica just to hike and explore nature,” Punta Islita’s Muica said. “They also want to relax, and the natural surroundings of Guanacaste provide a wonderful place for this.”

 

Big Commerce Brings Big Convenience to Liberia

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FIFTEEN years ago, it was almost impossible to imagine shopping malls, multiplex theaters and chain fast-food restaurants opening outside the Central Valley. Today, commercial development is thriving and expanding throughout the country and particularly in Guanacaste’s capital city of Liberia.

Fueled by tourism growth and development on the country’s North Pacific coast, the WhiteCity – so named after the limestone used to build many of the town’s original streets and buildings – has blossomed during the last decade, transforming itself from a sleepy little town to a vibrant center of commerce.

Gone are the days when Liberia was only a place where travelers would stop to get gas on their way to Playas del Coco and Nacascolo. And with the addition of regular non-stop flights to DanielOduberInternationalAirport by major international airlines, Liberia is officially on the international map.

THE first commercial landmark is found five minutes before entering the city – Mall Plaza Liberia (666-4512) (see separate story, S-13). Plans are to open a disco in Plaza Liberia sometime in the coming months.

The next big hub of commercial activity is in the heart of the city, near the historic El Bramadero Restaurant and the city’s main gas stations.

Across from El Bramadero stands the Food Mall – a new building that houses the local Burger King, Church’s Chicken and Papa John’s Pizza franchises (258-9999 for take-out for all three). For the most part, these restaurants are exactly the same as their counterparts elsewhere in the country – elsewhere in the world, for that matter – except they serve beer. The three restaurants offer delivery service to homes and hotels throughout the Liberia downtown area from 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Farther up the main street, 125 meters west of the gas stations, is the area Subway (665-0240). Open from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m., Subway is the closest thing to a late-night fast-food snack available in Liberia. A freshly prepared roast beef sub is a great way to start your morning, following a night of partying at the discos of the coastal hotels that offer all-included drinks.

In the same part of town is the local TCBY Frozen Yogurt (665-0955). Just remember that frozen yogurt is not really fat-free if it’s floating in a sea of chocolate syrup and sprinkles.

FARTHER into town, by the city’s main park, is Pizza Hut (666-7249). It delivers from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. throughout the Liberia area.

While these fast-food options may sound tempting, visitors should take time to sample to area cuisine. Plenty of good non-chain restaurants offer prime Guanacaste beef and other Costa Rican favorites at reasonable prices. The chinamos (stands) at the Liberia-San José bus stop are great places for authentic Nicaraguan food at real (non-tourist) prices.

Growth has brought other services to the city. Farther up from the gas stations on the main street is the local authorized Toyota Dealership (666-0016).

In addition to being the region’s commercial capital, Liberia is also the region’s main financial center. The city is home to branches of most major banks. All offer the standard financial services – automaticteller machines, deposits, withdrawals, account transfers, colón-to-dollar exchange and vice-versa.

Banco Nacional (666-1032), the country’s largest bank, has its Liberia office on Av. 25 julio, as do Banco de Crédito Agrícola de Cartago (BANCREDITO) (666-0879) and Banco Cuscatlán (666-3223), which is right in front of Pizza Hut. Approximately 75 meters farther east is Banco Banex (666-2197).

Banco de Costa Rica(666-0148) has its branch on the northeastern corner of the Iglesia de La Inmaculada.

Directly behind Banco de Costa Rica are the local offices of international courier service DHL (210-3838).

 

New Restaurants Stir Up Guanacaste’s Gastronomic Scene

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GUANACASTE’S tourism boom doesn’t mean only new hotels and new activities. Entrepreneurs from around Costa Rica and the world have launched new restaurants, joining the old standbys and, in some cases, bringing cuisine that their communities have never before seen. The cast of characters, in alphabetical order, and by no means exhaustive, follows:

“Walk a little more,” says the sign at Chile Dulce (across from Hotel Coco Verde, Playas del Coco, 670-0465, close Tuesdays, 12:30–10 p.m.). Chilean chef Andrés Benavente carries that health focused philosophy over into his preparation of Creole and international fare at this friendly restaurant-art gallery combo on the town’s main street. Healthy, low-fat ingredients make up the menu’s sandwiches, salads and natural drinks.

It gets warm trekking around Guanacaste’s capital, but El Café (75 meters south of Bancrédito, Liberia, 556-1660, Monday – Friday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.) makes for the perfect air-conditioned oasis.

Canadian owner Catherine Miller has a terrific selection of wines, French cheeses, pâtés, quiches, sandwiches, homemade tartes and gateaux, as well as on-site-roasted, export-quality Tarrazú coffee. All that, plus a book exchange with French, English, German and Spanish titles, means you won’t want to go back outside.

YOU don’t expect to see a Buddha shrine in a restaurant around here, but Dinia Matamoros of El Sueño (San Juanillo, 682-8074, daily, 9 a.m.–10:30 p.m.) says the statue is there for meditative rather than religious purposes. Take a half-century-old típico Costa Rican bar, add lots of pochote- and Guanacaste-wood decor, serve up a changing menu of light pasta, seafood and vegetarian dishes, play some world music for background, and you have a place you’d just never expect to find halfway between Junquillal and Nosara.

You’ll be tempted to ask, “Are you Ginger?” when you meet the owner of Ginger (200 m. south of Condovac, Playa Hermosa, 672-0041, Tuesday–Sunday, 5–10 p.m., TT Weekend March 26). But Cordon Bleu-trained Montreal native Anne Hegney Frey tells you it’s just the name of this fun, all-bocas restaurant. Mix, match and share plates from the Asian and Mediterranean menus. And half-way through your meal, you’ll likely gaze over at the next table and decide to order something else that catches your eye. Top your meal off with a selection from the wine, martini and dessert menus.

OSTEND, Belgium natives Danny and Katerine Sabot have brought elegant bistro dining to Guanacaste at Les Arcades (between Flamingo and Brasilito, 654-4385, daily, 6 p.m.-closing). Partake of crepes, escargot or a hearty Belgian waterzooi in the air-conditioned dining room or out on the garden-view terrace. Then move in to the comfy sitting room for an afterdinner coffee or cognac. The place oozes sophistication, but the prices are quite reasonable for what you get.

While María Bonita (next to supermarket, Playa Langosta, 653-0933, Tues.-Sun. 6 p.m.-closing) bills itself as a Caribbean place, owner Tom Peter admits there’s a bit of everything to be found at this bright, cheery patio restaurant with lots of tropical greenery. He’s lived all over, and has assembled some 45 menu items, from which he selects three to four appetizers and seven or eight main courses – you’ll find everything from lamb chops to red snapper here – that appear on the board each evening.

Asia meets Costa Rica at Perro Plano (Hotel Brasilito, Brasilito, 654-4237, Tuesday-Sunday, 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m.). The selection rotates at this pleasant beach-side restaurant. Breakfast tends toward the traditionally Tico. Lunch gives way to Indianstyle shrimp sandwiches and summer salads with white cheese, watermelon and marinated onion. Owners Charlie and Claire Mayne really go all out in the evening, when something as exotic as Kerala fish curry or wasabi tuna might appear on the menu.

IN a refreshing change from Costa Rica’s “tear it down” approach to construction, the owners of Un Dulce Momento (Parque Central, Nicoya, 686-4585, daily, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.) have refurbished the city’s historic art-deco cinema and turned it into an all-day, every-day Italian restaurant. Homemade pastas and 40 varieties of pizza, all recipes brought from their native Milan, are on the menu.

 

Costa Rica National Parks in Guanacaste Save Something for Everyone

MINI volcanoes, egg-laying leatherback turtles, miles of trails, camping, natural hot springs, spelunking and beaches await the explorers of Guanacaste’s parks. A deceptively profound diversity of sights is within the province’s 21 nationally protected conservation areas – more than the beautiful beaches and always-sunny weather for which the Pacific coast is known.

Most parks have entrance fees of $7 for tourists, ¢600 ($1.40) for residents and nationals, and keep hours from 7 or 8 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. Guides are available at most parks, and charge by the person or by the group. Questions about the parks and wildlife reserves are fielded within the country at one number, the national park hotline: 192. Most reserves have their own ranger stations with phone numbers that are available at the hotline.

A network of caves – 19 of which have been explored – interlace the Barra Honda National Park (686-6760), 22 kilometers northwest of Nicoya (TT Weekend, Jan. 30). Guides take groups of up to eight people on four-hour tours of some of the most impressive caverns, such as Terciopelo, La Trampa and Santa Ana. Santa Ana is one of the deepest, shooting down 240 meters. Terciopelo has the most to look at, with rock formations such as stalagtites, stalagmites, columns, rocky pearls and flowers, popcorn mushroom and shark-tooth-like structures.

ONE of its attractions Is called the Organ, because soft taps rouse a range of sounds. La Trampa – the trap – is so named for the sudden drop near the front door. The descent is a vertical 52 meters. The cave is spacious, with large rooms, one of which is lined with sparkly white calcite. Another, the Pozo Hediondo – Pestilent Hole – is so named for the guano dropped from its resident bats. It is the only cave with any great number of the creatures.

In addition to the caves, the park of nearly 2,300 hectares is home to a number of plant and animal species, including the capuchin monkey, coyotes, armadillo, deer, foxes, vultures, magpies and skunks.

Foot paths link mini-volcanoes and hot springs in the Rincón de la Vieja National Park (two entrances: 695-5577, 661-8139) in Guanacaste’s cordillera, 27 kilometers northwest of Liberia. The volcano of the same name rises 1,916 meters, has erupted from nine fissures (one of which is active) and has a lagoon in the south end of the crater. The last violent eruptions occurred between 1966 and 1970, when the mountain threw out huge clouds of ash and made a lot of noise. The most recent eruption was in 1991, and now it spouts gas and smoke from time to time.

At the foot of the volcano are hot springs and waterfalls, lagoons, pools of bubbling mud, vaporous spouts and small muddy volcanoes – about five meters in circumference – that spew gases.

THE park contains a range of habitats depending on the altitude, the amount of precipitation and the effects of the volcanic activity. Some of the most common trees are laurel, guanacaste, cedar, oak and cypress. The peak of the volcano is reached via an 8-km hike. Park biologists have counted 257 species of birds, including wild black turkeys, toucans, hummingbirds and owls. Larger animals include mountain goats, armadillos and monkeys.

Hours are from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Camping sites are available. Park guard Javier Sihezar says a run of the entire park takes about three days and advises against camping in the rainy season.

Park director and biologist Rodney Piedra calls the Las Baulas National Marine Park (653-0470) “the most important for sea turtles in the Western Pacific.”

It juts out right on the western-most tip of Guanacaste at Playa Grande, and is the most popular nesting site in the Western Pacific for leatherback turtles. (See separate story, page S-5).

The park’s 445 hectares encompass beaches, forests and mangroves and are home to 174 species of birds, cuddly and not-so cuddly creatures, such as raccoons, caymans and howler and capuchin monkeys.

Piedra advises that tourists call before they visit, because access is restricted to certain seasons and limited to 120 people each day during the egg laying season (the end of September to the end of March).

Cameras are not allowed, neither is camping, and tours are with guides.

Admission costs ¢1,000 ($2.35) for residents and nationals, $8 for tourists, and guides cost ¢500 ($1.20) per person in each group. Information on leatherbacks and their study is available at www.leatherback.org.