For those unfamiliar, families in Costa Rica mark Christmas Day with a mix of quiet reflection and casual outings, building on the intense family focus of the night before. December 25 serves as a day to unwind after the late-night gatherings and church services of Nochebuena, when most of our Catholic population attends midnight mass and shares a hearty meal.
Many households start the morning with prayers in front of the nativity scene, known locally as the portal or pasito. This display, often set up under the Christmas tree, features figures of the Holy Family, shepherds, animals, and the three wise men. Parents place the Baby Jesus figure in the manger at midnight on the 24th, and children check for gifts that tradition says the Niño Dios delivers. In some homes, Santa Claus – called Colacho or San Nicolás – takes credit for the presents, though surveys show a split: about four in ten families stick with the Niño Dios, three in ten opt for Santa, and the rest credit parents or relatives.
The food carries over from Eve’s feast. Tamales stand out as the star dish, prepared in large batches during tamaleadas where extended families mix corn masa, season it with spices, and fill it with pork, chicken, or vegetables before wrapping in banana leaves and steaming. Homes produce millions of these each December, with most people eating them throughout the holidays.
Breakfast or lunch might include reheated tamales alongside roasted pork leg in a sweet-sour sauce, rice with almonds, potato salad with apples, or boiled vegetables. Desserts follow suit: queque navideño, a fruitcake soaked in rum and packed with nuts and candied fruits; pan dulce or panettone; coconut flan; or Christmas cookies. Rompope, a creamy liquor similar to eggnog, flows freely during toasts.
By midday, people shift from home to the outdoors. In coastal areas like Tamarindo, Jacó, or Manuel Antonio, beaches fill with both us locals as well as tourists. Groups set up picnics, play soccer, or swim in the warm Pacific or Caribbean waters. The weather cooperates most years, with clear skies and temperatures in the high 80s Fahrenheit along the coasts, though strong winds – the vientos navideños – can kick up sand and waves. Inland, in places like San José or La Fortuna, families visit parks or attend community events, such as live nativity reenactments at churches.
Christmas Day also ties into broader holiday customs that spill into the following days. The next morning brings El Tope Nacional, a horseback parade in San José where riders in traditional attire showcase their skills. On the 27th, the Carnaval Nacional features floats, dancers, and music along the capital’s streets. These events draw crowds and extend the festive mood, blending religious roots with national pride.
In rural zones, traditions hold stronger ties to faith. Some communities continue the Rezo del Niño, a series of prayers and songs before the nativity scene that runs from December 25 to early January. Neighbors share food like corn cake or rosca de reyes, and fireworks light up the night sky. Posadas, where groups carol door-to-door reenacting Mary and Joseph’s search for shelter, occur in certain towns, but seemingly fewer and fewer, leading up to the holiday.
Decorations play a big role in setting the scene. Homes and streets have been glowing with lights from late November. Christmas trees, often cypress or pine, are adorned with ornaments, ribbons, and stars. Wreaths made from cypress branches incorporate red coffee berries – a nod to our country’s agricultural heritage. Public spaces in cities like San José host tree-lighting ceremonies that signal the season’s start, symbolizing hope and community spirit.
For many of us, the day emphasizes simple joys: reconnecting with loved ones who travel back from abroad, sharing stories over meals, and giving thanks. While urban areas see more influence from more universal customs like Santa, the core remains tied to Catholic practices brought by Spanish colonizers and adapted with local touches. Children learn the holiday’s meaning through these rituals, from assembling the portal with moss, sawdust paths, and tiny models of volcanoes or coffee fields, to joining midnight mass dressed in their finest.
When night comes, families might gather again for leftovers or head to fiestas civicas in nearby towns. These local fairs offer rides, games, food stalls, and sometimes bull runs, keeping the energy high into the new year. Costa Rica’s approach to Christmas Day strikes a balance – restful yet social, rooted in tradition while open to fun.
This blend makes the holiday a cornerstone of our national identity, where faith, food, and family create lasting bonds. Merry Christmas to all and enjoy the day!
