RÍO SAN JUAN, Nicaragua – The early morning mist hangs thick over the jungle banks of the Río San Juan. Large individual raindrops splatter on the giant banana leaves outside my thatched cabina at Sábalos Lodge. Howler monkeys, parrots, and a medley of other chattering birds greet the rising sun with loud songs.
Just 10 feet away, the mystic San Juan River flows silently by, carrying floating islands of vegetation the locals call “water lettuce.” Large prehistoric-looking tarpon – some weighing more than 150 pounds – jump and splash against the current. Beneath the surface, out of sight, freshwater sharks glide upriver to deeper waters, seeking refuge from motorboats and people.
THE Río San Juan is savage – it’s Nicaragua’s answer to the Amazon. For centuries, the river has formed the backbone of Central America. It is one of the hemisphere’s most historically significant trade passages and trans-oceanic water routes, used since the 16th century by explorers, pirates, merchants, and crusaders.
One-third of the way downriver, the impressive ruins of El Castillo still overlook the famous river bend where folklore credits Rafaela Herrera with defeating a fleet of British invaders in 1762, at the age of 19. Beyond El Castillo, the untouched borderland jungle stretches, protected on the Nicaraguan side by the Indio-Maíz Biological Reserve, until the river arrives at the Atlantic Ocean, some 80 kilometers away.
DESPITE the history and lore of the river, tourists – both national and foreign – are only now beginning to “discover” the Río San Juan and all it has to offer. Until five years ago, tourism was virtually nonexistent here. Today, supported by several new eco-adventure lodges, anglers, nature lovers, and travelers seeking something rustic and unique are visiting this river that divides Costa Rica from Nicaragua.
“This is the last place of pure, authentic ecology,” said Yaró Choiseul-Praslin, the jovial Nicaraguan owner of Sábalos Lodge, which recently received certification as an eco-lodge by the Central American Green Initiative. “Civilization, in all its magnitude, has not arrived here yet,” he said.
HUGGING the north bank of the river as it winds through the municipality of El Castillo, Sábalos Lodge offers a brand of eco-tourism that makes most places in Costa Rica look like petting zoos in comparison.
What began as a reptile export business in the 1990s has evolved into a seven-cabina operation that can host up to 27 people. The cabinas, made of cane and thatched palm, model traditional Indian dwellings but include amenities like running water and limited electricity powered by solar panels. Plans are underway to install a hydro-powered turbine.
An open-air restaurant serves fresh fish, meats, and hearty breakfasts with homegrown fruits. Nature trails wind through the surrounding forest and flower gardens, and horses are available for no additional charge. Sábalos Lodge also plans to build a small marina for fishing boats in the near future.
MONTE Cristo River Resort, a pioneer fishing-adventure lodge, is several kilometers downriver from Sábalos, near the town of El Castillo. Set on a hillside overlooking the river, Monte Cristo occupies a large farm with horseback riding trails, a Jacuzzi, bird watching, a bar/disco, and a tasty open-air restaurant.
The resort offers motorboats for rent – complete with a driver – for fishing or river tours. Guests can also enjoy water sports such as tubing and water skiing, which become true adventure sports on a river that’s home to sharks.
The lodge’s simple but comfortable cabins range from $45 for a double room to $180 for larger accommodations. Renowned international sports anglers and local celebrities, including former Sandinista President Daniel Ortega, have visited the lodge. Signed plaques lining the lodge stairs commemorate these visits.
