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COSTA RICA'S LEADING ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER

Happy Birthday to British Queen Elizabeth

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THE third Garden Party organized by the British Embassy to celebrate Queen Elizabeth’s birthday and raise money to benefit local schools will be held April 17.

Those who have attended in past years have enjoyed the event so much so that John Bryant of the Instituto Britanico said organizers did not want to make any big changes this year as last year’s party was such a success (TT, March 12).

Diane Wakefield has been at every Garden Party since the event’s inception. Her husband, John, is on the organizing committee.

“It’s a fun day out,” Wakefield said. “The entertainment is also excellent.”

THE party provides a chance for British citizens living abroad and non-citizens to get together and enjoy a day of British culture while contributing to a good cause.

The money raised by the event supports Costa Rican schools that do not have sufficient funding. Last year’s event raised more than $9,000, which was used to build basic facilities for three rural schools. Organizers hope that this year’s party will be even more successful.

THE Garden Party will have activities for all ages. Children can enjoy pony rides and face painting while adults can take part in the silent auction or dance to the live music on the floor set up over the ambassador’s pool – one of the few changes this year. There will also be Scottish and Maypole dancing throughout the party.

Guests can also enjoy the food and drinks- including tea and scones, homemade jams and chutneys, strawberries and cream, along with food provided by area restaurants will be available at the party. TraditionalGarden Party drinks, such as Pims, a lemony summer drink, will also be available.

The event is open to anyone interested in attending. Entrance is adults ¢2,000 ($4.75), children ages five to 12 ¢1,000 ($2.35), children under five are free. Admission includes ¢500 worth of tokens for food and activities, with more tokens available for purchase.

THE event will take place in Escazú at the residence of British Ambassador Georgina Butler running from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. The British Ambassador’s Residence is located in Escazú, Carretera Escazú to Santa Ana, from la Estación del AyA go 300 meters west and 75 meters north. In case of rain, there is a large covered area.

For more information, contact the British Embassy at 258-2025.

 

World Season for Peace Program Honors Workers

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THE audience filled the hall of the MexicanCulturalCenter in Los Yoses, including many young people, all committing to work for peace as part of the 7th Annual World Season for Peace.

The April 1 event marked the end of “The Season for Peace,” which is the period of 66 days starting Jan. 30 commemorating the births and deaths of notable peacemakers Martin Luther King, Jr. and Mahatma Gandhi.

The peace gathering is observed around the world under the sponsorship of the United Nations, private associations and government agencies.

The Season for Peace is a time to promote the practices and principles of non-violence, respect for life, justice and tolerance and to find forms of building and strengthening a peace culture.

The closing program included songs by the Singing for Peace chorus (Cantando por la Paz) and piano selections by Jaques Sagot. Sagot also gave the main address about how violence generates more violence and war generates more war.

WARS have never ended war, he said, tracing history back to the Greeks and Trojans. Nor has war eliminated dictatorships or injustice.

Compare the deaths of Princess Diana of Wales to the massacres of 800,000 people in Rwanda at the same time, he asked of the audience. The indifference to violence is evident in the fact that so much attention was focused on the princess and so little on the deaths of the Rwandans.

He also noted that millions of people die of hunger and sickness every year and in Costa Rica, emergency services receive about 7,000 calls a month for domestic violence, all reasons to work for a culture of peace.

EACH year the World Season for Peace presents awards to individuals and organizations working for a culture of peace. This year’s honorees were:

– Cecilia Barrantes Barrantes of Talamanca for community work in the Limón area.

– Libia Díaz Artavia for her work with women against abuse and violence and the rights of older people.

– The staff of the AIDS/HIV clinic in Hospital México.

– The Singing for Peace choir.

VALERIANNE Bernard, of the Universidad Mundial Brahma Kumaris, closed the program with a meditation ceremony to reflect on a commitment to a peace culture.

Red ribbons were distributed as a symbol of commitment. In Costa Rica, the World Season for Peace is organized by the National Office for the Prevention of  iolence and Crime of the Ministry of Justice, the Association Brahma Kumaris, the National Commission for the Rescue of Values, FriendsPeaceCenter and the Association for the Formation of Values.

Dulce Umanzor of the Ministry of Justice coordinated the event.

 

Costa Rican Skies Filling with Paragliders

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FIVE years ago, it would have been a shock to see a person paragliding in Costa Rica. While the sport had caught on and grown in dozens of other countries such as Colombia, the United States, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and other parts of Europe, the sport remained relatively unknown here.

However, in the last few years the number of paragliders in Costa Rica has boomed with new flight spots constantly emerging. Now, on any given weekend beneath the skies of Caldera, Jacó or a number of other places, you can look up and see little dots gliding and circling up high above.

Playing a key role in introducing the sport to Costa Rica has been Rubén Montoya. In 2000, Montoya moved to the country and set up Paraflight, the only school in the country that certifies pilots.

“When I first came here there were only six pilots in the entire country,” he said.

SINCE he’s been here, Montoya has personally more than quintupled that number, certifying 33 pilots at Paraflight. He has also seen the number of flight sites surge from three to 17, adding that plenty more sites remain undiscovered.

The Association of Free Flight (ASOVUELI), an organization of paragliding pilots in Costa Rica, is also playing a large role not only in the promotion, but also regulation and safety of paragliding in Costa Rica. With more than 50 members, the organization’s pilots discuss flight sites, safety measures and other issues related to the sport.

Recently, ASOVUELI held its first-ever paragliding safety workshop. Together, pilots discussed ways they could make the sport safer, including an alert system to other paragliders about problems and how to deal with them and by communicating with local airports to find out about air traffic in an area and to alert them of the presence of paragliders.

MOST people don’t want to think about accidents,” said Miki Hassid, 51, at the workshop. “This is new for a lot of people, but it’s very important.”

Tatiana Mora, 29, a founding member of ASOVUELI said that even though she’s been paragliding for years the workshop was helpful.

“You always learn something,” she said.

In a further effort to promote the sport, the First Costa Rican Air Festival will take place April 23-25 in Parrita and Playa Palo Seco, on the CentralPacificCoast, and will bring together dozens of paragliders from Costa Rica and around the world.

“It’s important that this is recognized as a sport,” Mora said.

THE festival’s directors, Aura Cristina Bedoya and Esperanza Gallego, also paragliders, hope the festival will not only attract people to the sport, but also to the area of Parrita and nearby Playa Palo Seco as ideal locations for paragliding and other extreme sports.

Montoya thinks the festival may be just what Costa Rican paragliding needs.

“The festival is going to show the world that here in Costa Rica there are beautiful places to do this sport,” he said.

The event hopes to bring the sport to the public and greater paragliding community’s attention. The festival will be taking place at the Restaurante Oso in Parrita, located about 30 km south of Quepos.

JACÓ is known by surfers and Manuel Antonio brings in a lot of tourists, but in between there isn’t much,” Bedoya said. “We hope to change that and establish [this area] as a location for these activities.”

Part of what will help establish the area as an ideal paragliding destination is the development of Timari.

Currently under construction at Playa Palo Seco, the hotel will be dedicated to extreme sports such as paragliding, kite surfing and more. With the first cabins opening at the end of the month, it is expected that Timari (which stands for tierra, mar y aire –land, sea and air) will be fully opened in June.

TIMARI has also helped to bring some of the best paragliders in the world- Raul Rodriguez, fourtime World Acrobatic Champion, Basilio Silva, Spanish Cross Country Champion, Peter Brinkeby, former Swedish Cross Country Champion and a second place finisher in the Paragliding World Cup standings –are all involved with the project and will be taking part in the upcoming festival.

The air festival will involve all sports of air sports and activities, including paragliding, kite surfing, remote control airplanes and sky diving exhibitions.

For more information on the festival, contact Gallego or Bedoya at 779-9426 or 837-5990.

 

Clean Hostels Good Alternative for Budget Travelers

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MOST travelers visiting Costa Rica use San José as a stopover point before heading out to explore the country or challenge the surf. Although a few tried-and true hostels have existed for years, budget conscious backpackers have been limited to slim pickings when it comes to accommodations.

An abundance of cheap hotels offer an extremely basic room with four walls, a bed and little else. Many are clean, but often located in the less savory part of town.

Backpackers’ hostels can be a home away from home, as those who’ve trekked the world well know. Australia is certainly aware of how to “do it right mate.” Most guests are young, but if you don’t mind shared rooms, dorms with bunk beds, plus communal facilities – they are the best bet money can buy – and intrepid travelers of any age are welcome.

THREE recently visited hostels certainly met expectations. If you are seeking cheap accommodations in a clean, friendly environment, then check them out.

Two are located in San José, on residential streets near the west end of Paseo Colón, and close to the SabanaPark; ideal for those who enjoy running. The other is in the western suburb of San Rafael de Escazú.

None have a curfew and all offer free Internet access, coffee, tea, cable television, hot showers, laundry services, kitchen facilities, luggage storage, tour information and book exchanges. They are ideally situated only a few minutes walk from bus services, large supermarkets, small sodas (cheap family run restaurants) or fast-food chains.

GAUDY’S BACKPACKERS is a three-year-old family run affair and the oldest kid on the block. Vivacious Colombian owner Beatriz Hernández takes great pride in her delightful residential house with a courtyard full of potted plants, a couple of hammocks and attractive patio furniture.

The other large patio is being converted into a barbecue area for the use of guests. The nicely appointed double rooms that open onto it have private baths. At $20 a night they are a pleasant alternative to the dorms with bunks ($7 per person) that sleep six to eight people.

The spacious high-ceiling lounge overlooking the courtyard is a popular gathering place, furnished with comfortable sofas and dining room table.

“We have a great time. People sit around, exchange travel information, play games or maybe their guitar,” Hernández said.

A large collage of photos on the wall is her memento of many guests – from all over the world – who have visited Gaudy’s.

“People of all ages stay here, including families with young children. One of our favorite guests was a wonderful, adventurous 75-year-old traveler,” she said with a smile.

Only a short walk from downtown and within easy access to the airport, Gaudy’s is located at Av. 5, Ca. 36-38.

For more information, call 258-2937. For reservations, call 248-0086 or e-mail gaudys@backpacker.co.cr or visit the website at www.backpacker.co.cr

THE GALILEO HOSTEL is in the same area of another old family residence that welcomes backpackers. Colombian owner María García and her helpful English-speaking son Juan Pablo Cruz run this basic, friendly establishment. At 23, he’s the same age as the average guest, yet looks after their needs and is full of information about what to do and where to go day or night.

Galileo offers a variety of accommodations. Dorms with six to 10 bunks are only $6 per person and four tiny private rooms that sleep two to four people range from $18 to $30. All the rooms share four spacious bathrooms.

“We don’t advertise, as most of our guests hear of us by word of mouth from other backpackers; what we offer, our prices and location suit their needs,” Cruz said.

You’ll find the hostel on the corner of Av. 2, Ca. 40., just south of Paseo Colón. Contact it at 221-8831 or e-mail galileo@galileohostel.com or visit online at www.galileohostel.com

THE FRIENDLY HOSTEL opened its doors three months ago, but until then cosmopolitan Escazú, teeming with hotels and B&B’s, had little to offer the budget traveler.

Friendly Hostel lives up to its name and takes a lot of beating for the price. It’s housed on the second floor of a spacious, light and airy modern building. Rooms with six or eight bunks all have individual lockers and a private bathroom. Male, female and unisex dorms, plus a private double room with bath is available.

The overall price, $15 per person, includes a continental breakfast served in the charming dining room. Individual tables are set with a vase of flowers, brilliant blue tablecloths and white china.

All the same services as the other hostels are offered, plus parking and a 24-hour security guard. Friendly Costa Rican Arturo Echeverre speaks English and is always on hand to assist with tour information or to store a surfboard.

ESCAZÚ’S many restaurants and fastfood outlets are close at hand and an excellent bus service will get you downtown in 15 minutes.

For those who want to party, the nearby “disco strip” and late-night bars jump with activity ‘til the early hours.

Comfortable, affordable places to stay in a trendy upscale area are often hard to find, but Friendly Hostel certainly fits the bill.

It’s located in San Rafael de Escazú, 50 mts. west of Super Saretto. Call the hostel at 228-5280 or e-mail mactabash@racsa.co.cr or visit www.friendlyhostelcr.com

 

Caribbean Fish Jumping, Pacific Coast Not as Lucky

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BLUE skies and flat seas on the northern Caribbean coast have kept anglers happy, with fish jumping and most everyone getting a hookup at the mouth of the river, according to reports Monday from the Rio Colorado Lodge.

But news has not been as good on the Pacific, where billfish action should be in full-swing by now.

FISHING has been in the doldrums, with high water temperatures bringing action to a virtual standstill.

Wetass II skipper Sonny Kocsis fished out of Carrillo on the west cost of the nicoyaPeninsula, last week with the Phil Glasgow party. They did not see a fish in three days, so Kocsis gave them a fourth day free and they got lucky, with eight sails, a 175-pound blue marlin and a tuna to the boat. But that was the exception and Kocsis said it turned off again the next day.

Rick Ruhlow echoed a similar report on a cellular call from his boat the Kingfisher Monday, but said the Permit II went two for five on sails Sunday.

Fishing not been better for the boats out of Flamingo farther north off the coast of Guanacaste and Kocsis is getting a bit nervous since 160 fishermen are coming for his annual Michigan Boys tournament at the end of April into early May.

REPORTS are not better from the boats off the central Pacific region where anglers have been taking some hard licks this year, first with that several weeks of green water that slowed things to a standstill, as reported here previously, and now excessively warm water that has apparently sent the billfish offshore to cool off.

Bill Gannon, skipper on the Unique out of Quepos, said water temperature was at 90 degrees at the middle of last week, but was down to 86 degrees on Sunday.

“It has been very slow, with only a couple of small tuna and dorado on my boat last week,” Gannon said Monday. “There are four fly fishermen here scheduled to fish 14 days and after the first five days on the water, fishing different boats, they still haven’t seen a fish.”

The only good news heard from the west coast was a telephone call from Dave Shear from Florida to say he returned home after a day of the most incredible surf fishing he had ever seen.

THOUSANDS of pelicans were working a huge sardine school around the river mouth at Playa Langosta (in Guanacaste), where I have a condo,” he said. “Jack Crevalle were beaching themselves as they came in on the sardines, and in addition to the jacks, I caught jack crevalle to 30 pounds, 15 red snapper to five pounds, a small snook and even a shark, all in 90 minutes.”

Shear said even the local residents were loading up using handlines. Action was right in front of the Los Pinillas Golf Course, he added.

 

Museum Celebrates10th Anniversary

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The Children’s Museum is holding a one-week celebration in honor of its 10th Anniversary starting April 25.

On the opening day of celebrations, the museum will have a “Intelligent Light Show” where the lights will dance to a mix of music at 3, 4, and 5 p.m. Admission is free.

On April 26, a Latin American Culture Night will feature dances, music, videos and paintings of various Latin American countries at the museum. Ticket prices are ¢1,500.

Clowns, drums, cake and candy will be part of the birthday celebrations on April 27 from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. The night will end with a fireworks display.

A rock concert with the groups Gandhi, Evolutión and Sintagma will be held 8 p.m. April 30 at the museum. Ticket prices are ¢2,000.

On May 1, there will be a break dance and hip hop exhibition all day with a concert starting at 7 p.m.

On May 2, the final day of celebrations, the museum will hold a carnival starting at 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. at the Parque de Merced, located at Avenida 2, Calle 4. The carnival will feature rides, clowns, dancing, men on stilts, cimarronas and mascaradas.

A concert by Mekatelyu, a rock artist; Erick León and The Jungle, a salsa band; and Rookie, a reggae artist, will end the day’s celebrations. The final celebrations are free.

Unless otherwise noted above, admission is ¢400 for children under 18, ¢600 for adults (¢500 for kids, ¢700 for adults on the weekend).

The museum is located at Avenida 9, Calle 4 in San José.

For more information, call 258-4929.

 

High in the Hills, Notes Play from Ancient Flute

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THERE are breathy notes in a house in the hills of the Central Valley, a sound that is more moody and rousing even than the stories behind its arrival there.

A1,000-year-old meditation technique, the playing of the shakahachi flute, has been reincarnated into performance art and purveyed by a recent U.S. immigrant, Peter Ross.

Tradition has it that hundreds of years ago, before Japan crackled with neon lighting and the signals of a million cell phones, travelers could occasionally hear the reedy notes of a bamboo flute.

MONKS, called Komusu or priests of emptiness, paced the countryside in robes, heads covered with baskets that deemphasized their identities and shuffled their egos aside. Peeking from beneath that basket was the stalk of a meticulously carved bamboo flute, the shakahachi, the medium for sui-zen, also known as blowing meditation.

Today Peter Ross is one of its protégés. He shipped his flute workshop to Grecia, coffee town west of San José, from Seattle six months ago.

There, with a hillside view of the Central Valley in a house among palms and cane fields, he blows some of the same airy notes that those anonymous monks played centuries ago.

“Now it’s more flashy because it’s performed,” Ross said. There are musical flourishes that, he supposes, the monks never bothered to innovate. After a pause, he said the music expresses emotions and could have been fair game after all to the meditative monks.

ROSS studied the flute for 10 years with Japanese instructors and has made a career of fashioning and selling the instruments, teaching them to others, performing, and recording both his original songs and those of the flute’s long-standing tradition.

In 1969, Ross first heard the shakahachi on an LP from the open door of a music store on

Telegraph Avenue

in Berkeley, Calif. There, amid the din of hundreds of students and window shoppers, he heard the notes of the flute for the first time.

“This sound completely captivated me; it lifted me off my feet,” he said. “I floated into the store. You never hear anything like that, it was a wonderful sound.”

HE bought a flute in a shop in San Francisco after taking the LP home.

“I didn’t know how to play it, nobody there knew how, I just bought it on blind faith,” he said.

He stowed it in his backpack and practiced it during a three-year trek through 20 countries.

After finally landing in Hawaii, he began to study formally with Japanese master players.

He bartered for a second-hand shakahachi at a craft show on one of the islands, then sent it to a friend in Japan to repair a crack.

His friend took the flute to Yamaguchi Goro, the man who’s music on LP had first cultivated Ross’ affinity for the flute. Goro held it up to the light, the story goes, turned it around, and declared that it was one of the instruments that his father had carved.

ROSS went to Japan to meet him, they had tea and they played their flutes together in a trial-by-fire lesson without many words.

“They teach in a non-verbal way, the master plays and the student has to catch it,” Ross said. “They rarely talk about it –they just do it and it sinks in by osmosis.”

While in New Zealand, traveling with his wife, Marisa, he attempted to make his first flute from a patch of bamboo growing in the backyard of one of their hosts’. He cut it and perforated it with the holes in the places where he guessed they should go.

WITHIN two or three days, he said, his first green flute had shriveled.

“It looked like a piece of asparagus or celery. I was completely shocked,” he said.

He did not know then that the wood must be dry. Drying the wood is a lengthy process that begins with heating the bamboo over a coal fire – the liquid and oils bubble out, then it is placed to dry in the sun for six months. After, it is left in the shade for up to six years.

He has made more than 1,000 flutes since then, he estimates, of varying qualities, some more similar to Western flutes than the shakahachi, many of which he sold in craft shows around the northwestern United States.

PRACTICE flutes for beginners sell for $100 and up. Traditional Japanese flutes, he said, fetch an average price of $2,000 – although he has seen some that cost up to $10,000.

The traditional Japanese songs are divided in three types – Zen, folk and classical. Zen songs are those peaceful and airy notes that are the expressions of a blowing meditation.

The folk songs are those that might be heard today in a Japanese restaurant and the classical are performance pieces accompanied by two stringed instruments – the six-foot koto and the banjo-like Shamisen.

Even with an audience, it seems as if he is playing the flute alone to himself – his eyes close as if he is only attentive to the music and his head shakes out the tail ends of each breath into the bamboo stalk.

THERE is a sudden expulsion of the breath at the top of each musical phrase that then trickles more steadily through the melodic warbles until he draws a new breath. The effect reminds the listener of the presence of the player, of the breath itself and demands a state of attentiveness.

He does not shackle himself to the centuries of Japanese tradition, rather he plucks influences from his own experiences as a jazz saxophone player and welltraveled music aficionado.

“It’s not about meditation when I perform, it’s about bringing this tradition to people,” he said.

HIS interpretations have lent atmosphere to TV commercials and movies. He also has taught students and made five recordings. One recording is of the traditional arrangements which he reads from copies of original, handwritten Japanese notes. The others are his own inventions, imbued with his affinity for jazz, other African-influenced rhythms and a grab-bag of sounds that, collectively, he calls world music.

For information about lessons, performances, demonstrations or to buy flutes and recordings of Peter Ross, contact him at or 849-3113, on the Web at www.cloudhandsmusic.com

 

Jazz, Scottish Pub Arrive in Heredia’s Cloud Forest

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LOST in the woods along a sinuous road through the hills of Heredia, the Hotel Chalet Tirol is reinvigorating its quiet allure.

The Costa Rican family – owned hotel recently opened three new scenes on the grounds: the Tirol Jazz Club, the Green Dragon Pub and Grill, and the Café Eiffel.

Built more than 20 years ago in the style of a villa in the Alps, the hotel of brick plazas and wooden A-frames has remained faithful to its European theme – only now with one North American musical innovation.

THE jazz club, architecturally reminiscent of a Tudor theater, bills itself as having the best of local and international live jazz bands on the weekends.

The design, if not just the music, is particularly note worthy.

Ornamental carved and painted rafters bear the weight of the lofty ceiling, as do the stucco walls.

Doors are framed in brick and gold-leaf curls in false arches, there is a herring-bone wooden floor and a brick fireplace, a narrow balcony over the main entrance and, of course, the stage for the band.

For those who look up, the prize will be the chandeliers of multi-colored glass bottles.

Treats are available from the kitchen –it specializes in English, French and American foods – as are a selection of fine wines, liquors, and cigars.

THE pub and grill is a replica of an old Scottish pub, subtly divided with banisters, tiers and partial walls into a dining room, a raised bar counter of fine woods and granite, and a bar with smaller cocktail tables.

It is one of the few places in the country where a salsa-weary traveler or anyone looking for a familiar (or exotic) change of pace, can listen to classic rock and drink a Guinness or an Irish coffee. Not to be pigeon-holed, the music strays from United States and British favorites to Celtic, Jazz and (rarely) bagpipes.

The lighting is subdued, the walls of dark wood are lined near the ceiling with mugs, and the ceilings are broken up with false split-log supports.

Alvaro Batalla, son of the owner by the same name, points out it would not be a proper pub without a dart board, and, indeed, there is one in a narrow parlor just outside the dining room near the hotel’s front desk.

THE Café Eiffel is a quaint bakery and café, serving pastries, croissants, and various stuffed breads.

The luxury should not frighten off the budget-minded, the dishes and drinks are all reasonably priced, if not downright cheap.

BATALLA expects to open a game room for the guest’s children. For the room, he is borrowing ideas from his own kids – not an outdated ball room or stuffed-animal jails, this one will be well updated in the digital age with video games and televisions.

The hotel also features a gourmet restaurant, 14 suites, 10 chalets, a conference room for business meetings, tennis courts and trails through the neighboring cloud forest reserve – the BraulioCarrilloNational Park.

To get there, take the highway to Monte de la Cruz from Heredia, the hotel is three kilometers from the Castillo Country Club.

For more info, call 267-6222 or e-mail tirolcr@racsa.co.cr

 

Vacationing with a View at Prospero’s Pacific Guesthouse

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THE scene: Prospero’s Pacific Guesthouse at Puerto Coyote, northwestern Guanacaste province.

The characters: Prospero and Kundy Seeger, owners of this exquisite, remote vacation lodge – and we, the spoiled visitors.

The story: Traveling extensively all over the globe, the two former Zurich advertisers discovered Costa Rica as the country they had been longing for as a place to retire.

In the early 1990s, the Seegers designed a successful advertisement campaign for Chiquita Brand International. The couple’s first visit to Central America came as a gift from the company. They bought land at Puerto Coyote (on the Pacific coast’s NicoyaPeninsula) immediately.

“The autumn of our lives, we wanted to spend at a pristine beach area in a warm climate,” Prospero said. “As soon as I saw the recession coming in Switzerland, we decided to watch the blue ocean instead of red business numbers.”

Back home, the couple sold everything “except David and Alban, our two adult sons,” Prospero said.

In 1996, Prospero and Kundy started building their retirement heaven in Guanacaste. The beautifully landscaped four-acre grounds overlook the untouched beaches of San Miguel and Coyote. They extend over three platforms, featuring the comfortable guesthouse with its two apartments, the pool and the white-and-apricot-colored main house on top.

OUR construction workers were unfamiliar with amenities such as air-conditioning, Kundy’s bathtub and the kitchen ventilator,” Prospero recalled. “But they mastered everything to our great contentment.”

At first, the guesthouse was used as stylish headquarters to supervise the high-quality construction and was then frequented by family and friends. In 2003, the Seegers started renting to visitors, all of whom book well in advance.

Always brimming with creative ideas, both share a passion for fine arts, opera and gourmet cuisine. Prospero is a talented professional in the kitchen while Kundy is the family’s architect and interior decorator.

Kundy’s sophisticated handwriting is evident in the aesthetics and the functional design of the houses, as well as in the gardens. Landscaping is dominated by bougainvilleas, hibiscus and a large palm tree collection. (From the turtle-shaped pool, at least ten different varieties were spotted, majestic King Palms amongst them.)

Our days at the lodge began with a hearty breakfast, consisting of fruit, homemade bread, marmalades and fresh eggs – directly from the hen house – and fragrant coffee, which we brewed in the fully equipped kitchen of our 65-square-meters (700-square-foot) studio apartment.

The kitchen’s refrigerator keeps all ingredients ready, as well as milk, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages. The smaller 35-square-meter apartment sleeps two, equally stressing modern design and comfort, such as fans, roomy closets and a bathroom with hot water.

BOTH apartments open onto a large patio, well suited for private meals and relaxing naps in the hammocks or deck chairs. And they share a splendid view over the Pacific Ocean that is present from all vantage points.

Room rates oscillate from $50 to $80 for the big studio (breakfast and daily maid included) depending on how long guests want to stay.

I eagerly anticipated the climax of a Guanacaste summer day: The sunset. While swimming in the turquoise-colored pool, Vivaldi’s flute concertos filled the air and the changing colors of the sky and sea surpassed my highest expectations: The vanishing sun seemed to set the world on fire.

AT nightfall, the Seegers served an unforgettable can dlelight dinner, which was a veritable feast for our eyes and palates. Prospero’s forktender oxtail ragout was cooked to perfection, as well as the turbot with shrimp in a creamy Champagne sauce that we enjoyed the second night.

Our farewell dinner consisted of a tiny, flower-shaped sandwich with grilled bell peppers, followed by milk-fed lamb from the oven, served with a succulent sauerkraut-potato gratin. Excellent, homemade desserts included fruit pies, ice creams and custards.

DINNER has to be requested. Prices are commensurate, ranging from $15 to $20, without wine.

The location of the lodge allows for trips to nearby beaches and local dining. A dip in the luring surf of CoyoteBeach is just a 20-minute stroll away. The JabillaMangroveRiver nearby provides more silent waters for swimming and floating.

A popular lunch choice is Tanga’s on the same beach, where fisherman Carlos serves the best Red Snapper in town.

In the afternoon, a visit at nearby Playa Caletas makes a picturesque walk and gives opportunities for collecting miraculously shaped stones and sea shells. Three more beautiful beaches are a half-hour drive away, as a well as the world-renowned Hotel Punta Islita.

The lodge also is a base to explore the beaches south of Punta Coyote, a widely unknown part of the NicoyaPeninsula. Dry season, low tides and a cooperative 4×4 are ingredients which allow adventurous trips to Mal País and Montezuma.

Multilingual Prospero, who knows the area well, also helps to organize boating and horseback riding.

Prospero used a French proverb which was fitting for our farewell: “Partir, c’est mourir un peu.” (To leave is to die a little.)

For more info or reservations, call 380-4874 or e-mail pukse@yahoo.de or visit the lodge online at www.geocities.com/pacific_guesthouseGetting There: Take ferry from Puntarenas to Playa Naranjo (call 661-1069/661-3834 for departure time). Travel to Jicaral, where you turn left at the church to San Franciso de Coyote. Call the lodge for exact directions.

 

Pacheco: Trip to Europe Fruitful

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PRESIDENT Abel Pacheco returned Monday from a two-week trip in Italy and Spain with new firefighting equipment, blessings from the Pope and new opportunities to increase tourism in Costa Rica.

Pacheco and First Lady Leila Rodríguez mixed sightseeing and business meetings, operas and diplomatic visits during their travels, which began March 27 in Italy.

An unpaid debt to Italy from the 1980s left Costa Rica with many missed opportunities for support in the past decades, Pacheco told the press Tuesday after his weekly Cabinet meeting.

Italy loaned Costa Rica $12.9 million in 1983 to build a dry dock in Puntarenas (TT Daily Page, Dec. 5, 2003). The money was turned over to private hands and “somehow it was lost,” Pacheco said. The project sat in judicial limbo for years, during which time the government of Italy asked Costa Rica to repay the loan.

A new commitment to pay the debt means Costa Rica can count on the friendship of Italy in the future, Pacheco said. The President said he would like to forge this friendship on an interpersonal level by bringing more Italians to Costa Rica via a new direct transatlantic flight, for which he lobbied Italian airlines (TT Daily Page, April 1). Airlines are seriously considering such a flight from Rome – either direct to San José or via Santo Domingo, Pacheco said.

ITALY also could help Costa Rica create new opportunities through agro-tourism, which combines agriculture and tourism, the President said.

While in Italy, Pacheco met with members of a 3,000-strong cooperative that not only produces agricultural and industrial products for sale in markets nationwide, but also invites visitors to see how those products are produced.

Italian families visit the cooperative’s farms to learn about where honey comes from, and watch how their milk is retrieved. This could serve as a model for similar projects in Costa Rica, Pacheco said, adding that the cooperative is willing to help bring agro-tourism to the country.

THE agriculture sector in Costa Rica was given a boost when the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) committed donations of $614,000 to help the sector evaluate trade opportunities.

This has taken on increased importance in light of the Central America Free-Trade Agreement with the United States, Pacheco said.

This financing will also work to reduce the felling of trees, which can have deleterious effects on eco-tourism, Pacheco said.

THE spiritual pinnacle of the trip, which coincided with Easter Week, came April 5 when Pacheco met with Pope John Paul II – for approximately 10 minutes.

The Costa Rican President said the Pope “truly loves us,” and said he also met with a number of cardinals, to whom he told Costa Rica dreams of having a cardinal of its own.

While in Italy, Pacheco also met with President Carlo Ciampi, the Vice-President of the Council of Ministers, Gianfranco Fini and other government and business leaders who are interested in increasing tourism relationships with Costa Rica.

IN Spain, Pacheco met with representatives of the public and private sector. In a meeting with Grupo Lezama, which owns the School of Hotel Management in Sevilla, he discussed the possibility of bringing a similar institution to Costa Rica, he said.

Pacheco also met with representatives of Aena, a construction firm and airport operator interested in investing in Costa Rica, particularly in the south Pacific coast, he said.

Spain’s National Park service gave Costa Rica firefighting equipment valued at $172,000 (¢73 million), according to La Nación. The donation is intended to help combat forest fires in Costa Rica’s national parks and protected areas.

“THEY recognize the effort Costa Rica is making toward the protection of our forests,” Pacheco said.

Although Pacheco called on Spanish Prime Minister José María Aznar, he did not meet with Prime Minister-elect Jose Luis Rodríguez. Pacheco said the soon to-be leader of Spain was resting after his campaign.

During his tour of Spain, Pacheco brought a flower offering to Atocha, where a March 11 terrorist attack killed 191 people and injured more than 1,900, according to the AFP wire service.

Pacheco said the experience was very powerful, and said he was moved by the fact that Spanish children brought and left their toys at the site, “so that the young victims would have something to play with in heaven.”