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COSTA RICA'S LEADING ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER

No End to ‘Poison’

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“OLD Poison,” by Joan Francis, is a mystery novel with many layers. From Martian diaries and murder to environmental issues, the book is filled with a number of twists, turns and Costa Rican connections that make for a fairly enjoyable read.

The story chronicles private eye Diana Hunter, who has been hired to investigate a potentially deadly gas that could, in only a matter of years, destroy the entire planet.

She is given excerpts from a strange document called the Martian Diary. The diary tells of a deadly toxin, Red 19, that destroyed the once lush red planet. According to the diary, secret information regarding the poison was brought from Mars and hidden on Earth during the massive exodus after the planet’s devastation.

Doubtful of the entire situation, Hunter agrees to take the case – for a price – after a pushy client convinces her to look into it.

FROM there she enters a crazy and sometimes dark world of environmental and corporate scandal that takes her from California to Arizona to the rainforests of Costa Rica.

Luckily, she happens to be a master of disguise and more than once throws off pursers by making a quick change.

The story is well written, addressing many ideas but still holding readers’ attention. However, the five-page ending comes too quickly and doesn’t clarify much.

Furthermore, the entire story contained within the Martian Diary is cryptic. The final entry is supposedly meant to give Hunter hope, but may simply leave readers thoroughly confused.

PUBLISHED in 2003, the book is available on Amazon.com.

 

Calling All Charity-Minded Contra Dancers

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THE Clayfoot Strutters, famous for their Contra Dance (like square dancing), Zydeco and Waltz music will give a concert in the hotel Villas Zurquí Saturday, March 6 at 8 p.m.

The dance starts at 9:30 p.m. Kathy Anderson, a caller with international fame, will lead the dances.

It will be the band’s third visit to Costa Rica, accompanying a group of tourists of the Pura Vida Dance Camp, who get together every year in the Albergue Hacienda Moravia de Chirripó to enjoy the beautiful mountains during the day and their favorite dances at night.

AFTER visiting the indigenous reserve Cabécar de Chirripó, the band decided to give this benefit concert in San José to collect funds for the purchase of materials for the indigenous schools in the area.

For reservations call 381-6500 or 228-4285. Tickets, $20 per person, include the concert, the dance and appetizers.

Hotel Villas Zurquí is on the

Guápiles Highway

, 125 meters east of the Zurquí gas station.

 

Music for a New Dawn

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LIKE french fries with Salsa Lizano, Kadeho’s second album, ‘Hasta que Vuelva a Amanecer,’ (Until Dawn Breaks Again) is something familiar with a Costa Rican flavor. This might be a disk for those who miss the pop-alternative rock of the mid-1990s but don’t want to sacrifice the influence a town like the Pacific port of Puntarenas has on the music scene.

The latest, released this year, two years after their first, features the lyrics and properly jaded voice of lead singer and songwriter Jorge Zumbado. Though most of the songs do not steer from love themes, the words are one of their most original aspects. The title song, driven by melancholy guitar chords that verge on a reggae beat, deals with underdevelopment in Costa Rica.

ZUMBADO wrote one of the songs, ‘Fantasmas,’ (Ghosts) the day before the group recorded it. The base line recalls Johnny Cash’s rougher tunes and the guitar strikes some of those same minor notes that sharpen the edge of the alt-rock sound. ‘Tanto Tu y Yo’ (Both You and I) begins with a tough guitar riff and some feedback then relaxes during the poetic vocals, but the toughness rebounds for the instrumental chorus and finale.

Vivo Volando’ (Living in flight) sounds like a teenybopper tune with an edgy guitar, but one of the most unusual songs on the album is the last, ‘El Soldado Enamorado’ (The Soldier in Love). It is a genre-crossing conglomerate of musical sections, some featuring a slow reggae-like guitar and others a surprising horn section, all reigned in with Zumbado’s mood-dampening voice. The song is a response to the war in Iraq that casts the soldier as a sensitive lover who left his sweetheart behind to defend his country.

ACCORDING to Zumbado, the name of the album was derived from an experience in his hometown Puntarenas.

“Every time we were in Puntarenas we waited until the bars closed and got together in a park on the Paseo de Los Turistas that we called JurassicPark to wait for the dawn to break. It was an extraordinary experience to see how the sun rose in the morning. When we finally went to sleep we looked forward to going out again at night until the sun rose the next day. It’s like a cycle.”

Hasta Que Vuelva a Amanecer is available in music stores around the country and its label, DDM, plans to export it at a later date.

 

A Spanish Dove in Costa Rica

Acclaimed Spanish ballad singer Paloma (Dove) San Basilio will be performing on Sunday, March 7 at 8 p.m. at the Melico Salazar Theater.

The famous singer is promoting her latest CD, “La Música Es Mi Vida,” (Music is My Life), which contains more than 30 well-known songs compiled from three decades of hits and 26 CDs.

Some classics are “Juntos,” (Together) “Quiereme Siempre,” (Love Me Always) and “No Llores por Mí Argentina.” (Don’t Cry for Me Argentina).

Tickets are on sale at the National Theater and Interfin branches in North Sabana, Heredia, Alajuela and Cartago and are ¢12,000–¢30,000 ($28-$71). For more info, call 210-4310.

 

The Art of Listening: A Humorous Take on Social Dynamics

THE world, according to my neighbor Forsquare, is almost equally divided into Talkers and Listeners. Well, I’ll go along with that, providing Forsquare admits to being in the first category. Myself, I prefer to be a Listener; the technique is simple – you just have to nod now and again while you plan your escape – and the dividends are impressive. By saying nothing you avoid demonstrating your ignorance, and if you nod vigorously enough, the Talker who has been bending your ear all evening is likely to spread the word concerning your wide knowledge of affairs.

But don’t get me wrong; Talkers are an essential component of the social scene. What kind of disaster would you have on your hands if you invited five couples to dinner and every last one turned out to be a Listener? On the other hand, it would be perfectly OK if they all turned out to be Talkers, who in fact function just as well in front of a microphone or a TV camera, which can’t even nod, as in the presence of warm bodies.

IT is my firm conviction that Talkers derive important health benefits by practicing their craft. They are the kind of people who used to go to expensive psychoanalysts before Chlorpromazine was found to be more effective and considerably more economical. Thereafter, they mostly converted to Catholicism to guarantee a willing ear in the confession booth. Little do they know (or care) that their confessor has developed his own defense against utter boredom.

How do I know? Well, I tried it myself once, just to check out my hypothesis. “Father,” I said, “I have sinned. Yesterday I murdered my best friend, and last week I did away with my Mother. I just don’t know how to stop.” There was silence until I coughed loudly then, as if recalled from a daydream, my priest mumbled “Yes, my son. Say three Hail Mary’s and don’t do it again.”

Obviously he was a poor Listener, because how on Earth could I off both my Mother and my best friend more than once?

BUT there’s something else about Talkers that bears closer examination. They aren’t Listeners, by definition, which means they aren’t even listening to themselves, so it seems to me that they too are planning the next meal, or whatever, while their oratorical flow continues unsupervised. To check this out, try interrupting Talkers in mid-sentence. Ten to one they’ll give some kind of an answer unrelated to the question, then (and this is the give-away) they’ll say “Where was I?”

Now I put it to you as a discerning Listener, how could anyone not know this unless the mouth had been operating independently of the brain? Be all that as it may, and admitting that Talkers have their place in the community, I must admit to a sneaking preference for Listeners. They are usually empathetic, caring people, who practice true charity in the exercise of their chosen function, while Talkers are often all too eager to sell you something you don’t want or to touch you for a loan.

VOLTAIRE, who should know, claimed that speech was given us to conceal our thoughts; an assertion that seems self-evident when you watch a politician ducking a difficult question by a hostile interviewer. So Listeners, beware! Discriminate! Choose your Talkers from among your friends, as carefully as you would delete e-mail messages of unknown origin!

And have a good day!

Area Lawyer Furthers Int’l Women’s Rights

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(March 8 is International Women’s Day.)

TO the non-legal mind, court systems can be confusing – especially the international ones far from our personal experience. But Costa Rican international human rights and women’s rights lawyer Ana Elena Obando sees The new International Criminal Court (ICC), which will preside in the Hague, as an opportunity.

The court was initiated by the United Nations to hear cases of war crimes and genocide, or cases that violate international standards of conduct in wartime, as well as to make civil and military leaders accountable for war crimes and, hopefully, prevent future acts of violence against civilian populations.

A historic first for this court, conceived in the United Nations and born in Rome in July, 1998, is that it will codify war crimes against women and provide victims with protection, participation in the justice process and compensation.

SUCH crimes are being taken seriously by the court only because women’s advocates and lawyers such as Obando worked long and hard to push for the issue. She has been a strong advocate in promoting the ICC and securing gender awareness within the court. Obando worked at the international level with gender awareness groups and the Women’s Caucus, lobbying and meeting with U.N. delegations and international human rights organizations and writing up “countless” legal drafts to ensure the participation of women both as members of the court and as defendants.

One result of work she and her colleagues have done is that seven of the 18 ICC judges are women, including Costa Rica’s former Vice-president and Minister of Justice, Elizabeth Odio.

Gender perspective, however, means more than just a few women on the blackrobed panel. It means training all court personnel to be gender sensitive to women’s participation, as victims, witnesses or legal staff, explained Obando. It means making people aware that forced pregnancies and rapes by enemy soldiers are crimes against humanity.

“It is important that those working with the court, including investigators, translators and reporters, are gender aware,” she said.

WOMEN as war victims have never been visible, and crimes against women have come to light only recently with the case of the Korean Comfort Women against Japan. Rape and sex crimes committed during a conflict were previously considered a “normal” part of war.

Gang rapes by enemy soldiers, forced prostitution, forced sterilization, forced pregnancy, sex slavery, mutilation, psychological injuries from threats and abductions by armies, para-militaries or rebels all come under this category.

Obando has been a rising legal star in Costa Rica whose interest in the law began at an early age. Her father, a lawyer, encouraged her interest and curiosity, and by the time she was in high school at Colegio La Salle, she knew law would be her career. Her interest in women’s causes came from her awareness of sexual and domestic abuse.

She earned a bachelor’s degree, Cum Laude (1985) and a law degree, Summa Cum Laude (1986) from the Universidad Autonoma de Centro América. She holds a Master’s in Justice Studies from ArizonaStateUniversity. She is a founder of “Mujer, No Estas Sola,” a support group for abused women, and continues to work for human rights, especially for women.

ALTHOUGH the ICC has the support of the majority of the countries in the world – 92 governments have ratified the agreement so far, 30 more than needed – the United States opposes it and has tried to weaken it with bilateral agreements that would deny aid to countries that bring U.S. citizens before the ICC.

This would include military personnel committing human rights violations in countries where they are based or engaged in war. Currently, 37 wars are being fought in 28 countries, eight of which ratified the ICC, including Afghanistan, Colombia, Nigeria, the Republic of Congo and Senegal.

 

Night Diving in Costa Rica: Discover the Thrill of Underwater Nightlife

Nighttime is the right time for diving in Costa Rica. Like a night hike in the forest or in the city, you will need somewhat advanced skills and a guide. And just like the forest and the city, a host of creatures unseen in the daylight appears after the sun goes down.

When you are diving into nightlife, it helps to reconnoiter the site during the day and figure out the path you will take after hours. Of course, all equipment must be double-checked. Redundancy of crucial items is standard. The extra work pays off big.

Strange beasts that remain hidden in cracks, crevices and caves in the day venture forth into the night – such as hundreds of lobster that walk around on the bottom as if it were some kind of beach party.

Fish sleep on the rocks, reef and sand like vagrants. Mean jellyfish move like fighter jets. Exploding worms strafe you as you fly over. Hunting sharks dart through your dive-light beam. Corals feast on any little thing they can get their tentacles on. Wee shrimp-like crustaceans, known as sea mosquitoes, although they carry no known diseases and do not suck blood, may swim away with a chunck of your flesh.

Beach dives are one of the best ways to begin night diving. Just going down a few meters at night is enough to thrill everybody the first time, because the experience is so different from day diving. If you like wildlife, once you have gone night diving, you will be hooked. And you won’t forget long sleeves on subsequent dives.

Manzanillo, in the Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge on the south Caribbean coast, offers perhaps the easiest and most diverse night diving in Costa Rica because of the coral reefs right off the beach. Many of Guanacaste’s northern-Pacific beaches have rock reefs and islets just offshore that are perfect for night beach dives.

Offshore sights at these locations provide big-time night thrills when you are ready for more. Night dives at the remote Cocos Island are so thick with large marine life that some experienced divers might refuse to get in the water. But most cannot resist the call of the night. Strangely, night diving is illegal at the Southern Zone’s Pacific dive sites at Caño Island. I do not know why.

One of the best parts of a night dive can be when we turn the lights off. Just as you need to be far from city lights to see the stars, there must be darkness to see the stars of the sea. Countless marine organisms produce their own light. Some glow blue, some red, yellow, green or anything in between. To top it all off, tiny plankton make the ocean glow everywhere there is movement. A current on a rock, a boat’s wake, a crashing wave, a kayak’s paddle stroke, or a dolphin’s path all create light.

Once your eyes adjust to the darkness, you will see there is just as much natural light under water as in the starry sky, except under water, the experience is much more three-dimensional. The fact that everybody moving has an aura and throws bright sparks makes it even more fun.

A cloudless full moon hides most of the stars of the sky and sea, but the advantage is you often do not need a light to move around. The moonlit seascape under water is just as beautiful as that of the beach or the mountains bathed in silver light.

Conditions always change, so some days are better than others. Check ahead and go with a pro to ensure a safe and satisfying experience.

Careful though – you just might become a creature of the night yourself.

Baalbek Celebrates Birthday

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Baalbek Bar and Grill celebrated its third anniversary with a three-day fiesta recently.

The restaurant began as the Habibi Bar (“I love you” in Arabic). The breathtaking view and the environment gained lots of fans, which inspired the staff to open the area onto a balcony.

Now the restaurant is opening “La Kava del Profeta,” and soon five small huts will be ready for those who after a night of celebrating would like to stay.

For more info, call 222-2126 or fax: 258-3075. Baalbek is in Los Angeles de San Rafael de Heredia, north of San José.

 

To The Limit

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SWEAT pours down their faces. The blisters on their feet worsen with every step. They haven’t slept more than a few hours in three days. They’ve hiked, biked and kayaked hundreds of kilometers, but still have more than 100 to go. All they have is a map and three other people who won’t let them out of their sight and who are really starting to wear on their nerves. They’re enjoying every second of it.

Welcome to the Coast to Coast Challenge, put on annually by Coast to Coast Adventures. Now in its fourth year, the challenge pits teams of four competitors against each other in an all-out test of mind and body as they race from Limón on the Caribbean coast to Dominical on the Pacific.

Organizers wouldn’t give the exact details of the race, but the 400-km course includes sea kayaking, whitewater kayaking, mountain biking, trekking, rappelling and orienteering.

“It’s much more mental than physical,” says race director Mike Lapcevic. “For the competitors, it’s about seeing how far they can go.”

For those unfamiliar  with adventure racing, the sport emerged from New Zealand in the early 1980s. After a slow start, it began to gain popularity during the following decade. In 1991, Costa Rica hosted its first race, 10 days from the east to west coast, not related to Coast to Coast Adventures.

FOR several years, Coast to Coast Adventures had been putting together adventure tours, including a two-week trip where participants journeyed cross country without any motorized vehicles. In 2001, they decided to hold a formal competition.

Every year since, the tour has evolved, growing in distance as well as in the number of days for competition. Each time, race organizers learn new ways to improve safety, preparation, the course route and volunteer coordination.

“We’re learning every year, which is good,” says Lapcevic. “That way, when it’s an international event with 30 or 40 teams, we’ll be prepared to deal with it.”

Competitors are given a map and a direction and set out into the Costa Rica wilderness, where they will encounter sleep deprivation, blisters, sun and occasional disputes amongst themselves. Team members must remain within 100 meters of each other at all times and can receive no outside assistance.

First prize is cash and qualification, along with paid entrance fee, to an adventure race in Brazil, altogether worth ¢1 million ($2,370.)

“I think adventure racing is for people who have done hiking, rafting and mountain biking, but want something more,” says race coordinator Carol Ann Riley.

THIS week, eight teams of competitors from the Americas and Europe will take part in the five-day race.

The field is smaller than in past years, something Lapcevic attributes to the fact that several other adventure races are taking place at the same time; some Costa Rican teams from past years are competing in those races instead.

Each team has four members, at least one of whom must be of the opposite sex. Competitors have ranged in age from 18 to 55, with the majority of racers in their 30s and 40s. Racers train for months to be in top physical condition for the challenge.

In the past, Costa Rican teams have dominated the competition, winning every year. Last year, out of 13 teams, seven (all from Costa Rica) finished, with the winners finishing the course in three and a half days. This year four teams that completed the race last year are returning.

Eric Cano is on one of those teams – Team Dole. An adventure guide in Costa Rica, Cano trains everyday through his job. Being employed in the adventure tourism sector is common among racers, Lapcevic says, as they are already participating in outdoor activities.

“The truth is, I’ve always liked adventure,” Cano says, when asked why he competes. “I enjoy mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking, hiking – this gives me a chance to do it all instead of just one sport.”

ACCORDING to Lapcevic, racers tend to fall into two categories: serious competitors, such as Antonio De La Rosa, a member of the elite international team sponsored by Red Bull energy drink, and participants who are there to push themselves, such as those on Team Fred, who are credited for introducing more than 60 people to the sport. In each race Team Fred has one member who has never raced before, promoting the idea that “anyone can do this.”

“It’s really important to see everyone finish,” says Riley. “That’s what we want to see – not people getting disqualified or dropping out.”

This year’s race runs March 8–11. For more info on Coast to Coast Adventures, see www.ctocadventures.com or call 280-8054. For info on the Coast to Coast Challenge, see adventureracingcostarica.com.

 

Indigenous and Black Communities Shine in Unique Panama Theater Play

FOR the first time, four marginalized Central American communities performed an intercultural theater play in Panama, in the Caribbean islands of Bocas del Toro and Bastimentos. Since the beginning of February, 40 indigenous actors, musicians and dancers from Central America practiced on the island of Bastimentos to combine their myths, rhythms, dances and cultures. They performed the resulting art fusion Feb. 25-26, thanks to a French theater organization and its intercultural project Corazón de la Tierra (The Heart of the World).

The islands, just a few hours south of Costa Rica, offered a perfect setting, with their turquoise water and white-sand beaches. Two plays were presented to local and international spectators, to raise consciousness about these marginalized cultures.

The project included two Indigenous tribes (the Maya of Lake Atitlán in Guatemala and the Kuna Indians of Ustupu, in the autonomous territory of Panama) and two black minority communities (the Garifuna of Triunfo de la Cruz in Honduras, and the Congo tribe of Panama). Corazón de la Tierra aims to create a Euro-Central American cultural network, focusing on these cultures and identities.

“The main theme of the play is to fall into a dream,” explained Anne Sylvie Mayza-Badré, the French artistic director of the company. “It is a theme that gathers the four communities, their mythologies, the visible and the invisible – the ancestors.

“Typically worldwide, dreams are important; however, in the Western world, we tend not to value them. For the Maya, Kuna, Garifuna and Congo, a dream is symbolic of reality. It is not ‘just a dream.’ The dream allows the actors to jump from one element to another, with different scenes in their histories and religions.”

THE theater project began in 1995, as an initiative of the French theater group Babel Tower. The idea, according to founders, is that everyone is different; however, languages are not a barrier.

The Babel Tower first worked with the Maya K’iches in Guatemala, creating a play on the Pop wuj, the only Maya book explaining the creation of the world. The show played in Guatemala and France. The organization then expanded the project to other countries in Central America, creating Corazón de la Tierra.

“Central America is a mosaic of cultures, peoples and tribes who do not always get along and are especially unfamiliar with each other,” explains Mathieu Goudin-Ebbesen, a volunteer with the organization. “It is very interesting to have them all work together while maintaining the cultural integrity of each group.”

THE four communities are very different from one another and yet complement each other. They are all minorities suffering from exclusion. “What unites them is the presence of magic, the spells, and the cult of the ancestors,” says Mayza-Badré. “The names and the stories change, but they have many similar ways of thinking.”

The Maya from Lake Atitlán are quite introverted in their art. They are very religious, often intellectualizing their acting. This small group suffered terrible trauma during the Guatemalan civil war, since many family members have ‘disappeared’ or have been tortured. The six men of the group give all their energy in the play, where they have the opportunity to present their spiritual leader, the Machimon.

In contrast, the Garifuna are not afraid to use their voices and bodies to express themselves, with their art based on improvisation and spontaneity. They dance with African-influenced rhythm, creating an amazing ambiance with their drums and voices. They are the descendants of African slaves mixed with the Arawak native indigenous to the island of San Vicente.

The Garifuna have spread all over the Caribbean coast of Central America and gained a distinct culture apart from the Latinos. In today’s context of globalization, this Honduran minority fears the loss of their cultural heritage. Theater is a way to remind the world of their existence.

THE Kuna Indians from Ustupu, in the Kuna Yala archipelago of Panama, can be seen as a warrior tribe. They are one of the few indigenous people who fought against the army of Panama to protect their traditions and culture, and who managed to find external help to remain an autonomous territory.

They have maintained their traditional costumes and ways of living. Their art is very organized and structured. Also from Panama, the black community of the Congos is the newest arrival in the project. They brought their Queen for this unique theater performance. Locals often recognize this famous old woman, carrying her huge crown proudly, from TV.

She explained the meaning of the Congos’ traditional dances, usually performed during the annual carnival. The princess and the prince of the Congos also participated in the play.